As inflation and tariff pressures squeeze discretionary spending, denim brands are finding it harder to convince shoppers to buy more jeans—so they’re focused on making each purchase feel more worthwhile.
“At a daily-wear level, people like denim—but they’re not willing to buy so many new garments,” said Dennis Hui, global business development manager, denim at Lenzing. That reality is reshaping product development across the denim supply chain.
What’s changing on the product side
At Kingpins Show New York, mills showed that “newness” now matters more than ever:
- Design differentiation: printing, jacquards, dobby textures, lurex sparkle, patchwork and destruction details
- Material innovation: cotton–linen blends for summer luxury; specialty fibers like collagen-based Filagen; advanced cellulosics such as TENCEL™ Lyocell HV100
- Comfort upgrades: lighter weights, softer hand feel, and breathable constructions—even in vintage-inspired looks
- Cost-neutral sustainability: lower-water and lower-energy dyeing processes positioned as value enhancers, not price add-ons
The goal isn’t extravagance—it’s perceived value. As one mill executive put it: ordinary and expensive doesn’t work anymore.
Stretch: not gone, just redefined
Despite talk of skinny jeans returning, high stretch has not fully come back. Instead:
- Rigid and low-stretch fabrics dominate baggy and loose silhouettes
- Comfort stretch is selectively added to the top block for wearability
- Gender and age splits persist: men lean toward subtle stretch; women and teens favor rigid authenticity
Mills are keeping high-stretch R&D alive—but mostly in readiness mode.
Sourcing shifts continue
Tariff uncertainty has made diversification the “new normal.” Brands and mills are spreading risk across:
- South Asia (Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka)
- North Africa (especially Egypt)
- Southeast Asia (Vietnam, Cambodia)
- The Americas (Mexico, Colombia)
At the same time, new consumer markets—notably India and China—are growing in importance as denim consumption rises locally.
Bottom line
Denim isn’t in decline—it’s evolving more slowly and more deliberately. With shoppers buying fewer jeans, innovation must justify the spending, balancing novelty, comfort, sustainability, and price realism. For mills and brands, the winners will be those who deliver distinctiveness without excess—and value without compromise.
