From the delicate artistry of shawl weaving to the intricate carvings on walnut wood, the city’s artisans have been breathing life into stunning creations for generations. Srinagar is proud to secure a coveted designation as a world craft city by the World Craft Council.
The recognition comes three years after Srinagar’s inclusion in the UNESCO creative city network for crafts and folk arts. Beyond the snow-capped Himalayan Mountains and serene lakes, Kashmir’s looms witness century-old tradition and craftsmanship. Kashmiri weaving involves intricate patterns and techniques that echo the stories of generations that have dedicated themselves to preserving their heritage.
Kani shawls, being one such testament to exquisite craftsmanship, reign as supreme artistic creations in the rich cultural heritage of Kashmir’s weaving traditions. Known for its elegant designs and luxurious finishing, a Kani shawl is considered a prized possession across the globe. Every Kani shawl design is a living history where quality and artistic excellence converge beautifully.
The origin of the Kani shawl is a quaint village named Kanihama, nestled in the lush green valley of Kashmir.
Kanihama itself means ‘Kani,’ which refers to wooden sticks, and ‘Hama,’ which means village. Artisans use a small wooden stick called ‘Kani’ and wind colourful weft threads around these sticks to create intricate patterns on the shawls. That is why it’s also called tuje pashmina (tuj meaning sticks). These wooden spools or sticks are made from forest wood, known as ‘poos tul.’ Although initially, Kanihama held a monopoly over the production of Kani shawls, artisans from neighbouring villages acquired the skill of crafting these exquisite shawls over time.Kashmir under the Sultans.”
During the sultanate period, other than salt, shawl wool was the most important thing to be imported. From the Mughal accounts, it was known that the shawls were exported to all parts of the world, and there were thousands of shawl factories; however, the exact number cannot be drawn from the chronicles, but it is said that during the era of King Akbar, 2000 shawl factories existed. Most importantly, the taxation system was highly rigid during this period.
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Over the centuries, these pashmina-woven textile works of art, known simply as “kani shawls,” have been prized by Sikh Maharajas, Mughal kings, and European monarchs. Today, many of them hang in museums around the world, and in 2008, the Indian government gave these shawls a geographical indication, making it illegal for manufacturers in other regions to label their textiles. Kani shawls, among all Pashmina creations, are known to be the king of shawls.
After sourcing the wool, the workers remove impurities, including hair, debris, or dirt, before transforming the wool into soft, fine yarn. After that, the white or brown yarn undergoes a dyeing process to manufacture the colourful yarns required for different Kani shawl designs. To transcribe the designs, unlike most weaving forms, the designs of Kani shawls are not imprinted or stamped directly onto the fabric. Instead, an expert (karigar) transcribes the design into a code known as ‘Talim’ on graph paper.
Artisans began weaving the shawls using wooden spools called tujje or kanis. They insert colorful threads, called wefts, into a curtain of warp threads using bobbins.
Whenever the weavers need to add a different color to the design, two bobbins are joined, and this process continues until the Kani shawl is completed. Sometimes, the weavers may even use around 75 to 100 bobbins simultaneously to create the overall design of a Kani shawl. Usually, it takes 3 to 36 months to complete one piece of pure Kani shawl.
Because of the consecutive lockdown for years in the valley, which resulted in a dropping tourist season, the Kashmiri handicraft business has been in vain, and so has the life of Kashmiri artisans in the workshops.
Today, Kashmiri handicraft artisans are fighting for survival as the slump in the business has not only resulted in unemployment, but they also fail to pay the loan given to them under the artisan credit card.
Kani imitations offer a similar look, they differ in quality from the authentic Kani shawls. It is crucial to find the delicate balance between preservation and evolution to grow the art of traditional Kani shawls in this rapidly changing world. With an increasing emphasis on sustainable practices, the Kani shawl industry is also exploring eco-friendly bamboo modal fabric, dyes, etc. to revive the dying art of Kani weaving.
Despite the availability of machine-made shawls on the market, there is high demand for Kani shawls due to their unique handmade character. Unlike other Kashmiri shawls, Kani shawls don’t feature embroidery work, and the different patterns are woven on the loom itself. The price of Kani shawls starts at Rs 35,000 and goes up to Rs 3 lakh.
The journey that awaits ahead for Kani shawls is one of both challenge and promise. It is high time to educate consumers about the craftsmanship and cultural significance of Kani artistry to foster a deeper appreciation for every piece of Kani shawl. By embracing the new and nurturing the power of the old, the Kani shawl industry can continue to weave its story into the fabric of the future.
