DW(O)R-X will compare nine alternative chemistries across performance, environmental impact and cost, giving brands and mills a common basis for sourcing decisions.
Fashion for Good has launched Project DW(O)R-X to evaluate alternatives to per- and polyfluoroalkyl substance-based durable water- and oil-repellent finishes. The initiative responds to a persistent industry problem: available PFAS alternatives vary widely in durability and oil repellency, while existing testing protocols often fail to represent real garment use.
Testing moves closer to real-world wear
The project will benchmark nine chemistries, ranging from established commercial products to earlier-stage technologies. Each solution will be assessed across three dimensions: functional performance, environmental impact and cost.
Its testing framework combines standard methods with repeated laundering and abrasion. Water repellency will be assessed after one, five, ten and 25 wash cycles to create a durability curve rather than relying on a single initial result. Fabrics will also be exposed to stains relevant to sportswear and outerwear, including soil, sunscreen and sweat, followed by wiping and laundering assessments.
This approach should provide mills with more useful evidence on whether a finish can maintain performance throughout the intended life of a garment.
Chemical substitution faces scrutiny
Replacing PFAS does not automatically deliver safer chemistry. Fashion for Good warns against “regrettable substitution”, where a restricted substance is replaced by an alternative later found to create comparable or different environmental and health risks.
The assessment will therefore screen chemical formulations against the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, examine environmental impacts and test finished fabrics for chemicals of concern.
Brands, mills and suppliers collaborate
Adidas and C&A are participating alongside manufacturers Shahi Exports, Paradise Textiles, Positive Materials and Wujiang Fuhua Fabric. Chemical and technology partners include Archroma, Daikin Chemicals Europe, Dow, Dryfiber, Jintex, Lamoral Coatings, Pulcra Chemicals, Rudolf and vandeyk.tech. SGS will conduct performance testing.
The project’s commercial value will depend on whether its findings enable comparable sourcing specifications across different fabric constructions. Mills should expect future buyers to request not merely a “PFAS-free” declaration, but evidence covering chemistry, dosage, wash durability, fabric compatibility, cost and finished-product performance.
