Page 48 - TEXtalks. January-February 2023
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                       KNIT COUTURE





                    upcycling project






               Fashion design students at Reutlingen University breathe new

                              life into historic STOLL knitting patterns.










                 Bo Michael Kristoffersen








                                                                                                                                   Selfesque” collection by Kirsten Hippmann and Klara Mahn  Tails of the forest” collection by Karina Gaus

                                                                                                                                   Müller, 3D designer at STOLL.                     context, thereby giving them a new value. The young
                                                                                                                                                                                     creatives developed mood boards, colour, and                                                             modern upcycling can look through                 using smocking techniques, layering, crimping, and
                                                                                                                                   Cooperating with the best                         collection concepts, and subsequently extended                                                           street-style-inspired outfits. Their designs not only   embroidery.
                                                                                                                                   STOLL is an industry leader in flat knitting machine   them into a compilation of at least ten different looks.                                            reflect knitted STOLL patterns but also include their
                                                                                                                                   technology and has a wide range of knitted        The final piece included four outfits with two real-life                                                 packing materials. In this case, novel knitwear   Bilgen Colak also focuses on nature with her work
                                                                                                                                   swatches, as well as in-shape and seamless knitted   models and two digital 3D simulations. These                                                          creations have been combined with filled plastic   “Contamination”. With polluted and deconstructed
                                                                                                                                   garment products that make the possibilities afforded   resultant diverse creations breathed new life into                                                 puffer garments. As such, both designers are making   models, she is creatively denouncing the current
                                                                                                                                   by flat knitting technology tactile. Regular trend   STOLL’s historic knitting patterns.                                                                   a statement that no material is beyond upcycling.  environmental and marine pollution. To do so, she
                                                                                                                                   collections constantly symbolize new technological
                                                                                                                                   possibilities.                                    Turning old into new and beyond                                                                          Packaging also inspired Kirsten Hippmann and Klara   distorted knitting patterns that were originally
                                                                                                                                                                                     Lisa Bassot, for example, wants to appeal to a young                                                     Mahn to create their “Selfesque” collection. The   colourful using dyeing techniques and foil printing to
                                                                                                                                   Reutlingen University was recently named as Top   target audience with her “Old is the new new”                                                            students stuffed real waste material with cut-up   visualize how nature is being contaminated.
                                                                                                                                   University in Baden-Württemberg by the rating portal   collection, featuring a modern design language. She                                                 knitting pattern snippets and used them to make
                                                                                                                                   Study-Check. It is second in the national rankings for   is focusing on youngsters who want to get to grips                                                corsages and a cape. They also used excess yarn to   Sophia Heinisch refers to current social issues in her
                                                                                                                                   universities of applied sciences. As part of their   with the production, personalization, and possible                                                    develop new knitting patterns on the university’s own   collection, including the latest women’s movement in
                                                                                                                                   fashion design studies, the students at           combinations of their clothes. Lisa Bassot wants to                                                                                                        Iran, and demands upholding human rights.
             Old is the new new” collection by Lisa Bassot  Break the system - collection by Janna Sautter and Özgenur Kesimal                                                                                                                                                                STOLL warp knitting machine. The new creations
                                                                                                                                   TEXOVERSUM in Reutlingen focus on future issues   encourage people to wear clothes for several years                                                       were combined with historical pattern pieces, satin,   “Through my ‘CHANGE.org’ collection, I want to pay
            Close cooperation between educational institutions   Both the supervising professor Natalie Seng and                   facing the fashion industry, such as sustainability and   and to value their wardrobes. These outfits – made                                               borders, and feather accessories.                 tribute and express my admiration to those who are
            and industry is vital in today’s world: they can inspire   project partners at STOLL have been impressed by            digitization, where there are conflicts between   from what already exists – stand out thanks to their                                                                                                       courageous enough to stand up and fight for a better
            young students to new ideas, offer them future    the students’ creative achievements. “The works are                  handicrafts and consumer society.                 creativity: knitted trousers were stuffed and knotted                                                    In contrast, Karina Gaus placed nature at the very   future,” says Sophia Heinisch. Her collection
            opportunities and awaken new passions. With this in   evidence of extraordinary creativity and diversity. It is                                                          into novel tops. Tops were turned into a multi-layered                                                   heart of her collection: “Tails of the forest”. The   represents empowerment: the courage to express
            mind, the KNIT COUTURE upcycling project was      not a given that students in the 3rd semester are                    A lens on sustainability                          skirt with lacing, and two jumpers were transformed                                                      budding designer explains that she believes nature is   oneself freely and individually. With skilled
            initiated between STOLL – part of the KARL MAYER   already able to demonstrate such creative                           The joint KNIT COUTURE project also primarily     into accessories.                                                                                        a magical place that needs to be protected.       craftsmanship, she has combined different
            GROUP – and the TEXOVERSUM Faculty of Textiles    achievement. We are excited to see how the students                  focused on the topic of sustainability. A total of 13                                                                                                      Stylistically, she was inspired by fairy-tale creatures.   techniques, such as patchwork, crochet,
            at Reutlingen University as part of the 3rd semester   will develop throughout their studies and of course             students were asked to draw inspiration from      Group work by Janna Sautter and Özgenur Kesimal
            for fashion design. Both partners are leading the way   hope that we have been able to spark an interest in            historical knitting patterns by STOLL and to create   also demonstrates a feel for current trends: The two                                                 As part of her collection, she transformed a variety of   screen-printing, and classic pattern construction, to
            in their industry. The results are clear to see.  flat knitting as part of this project,” says Ellen Judith            new looks that brought old materials into a modern   designers’ “Break the System” collection reflects how                                                 STOLL knitting patterns into fantastic new creatures   create expressive models.

               January/February 2023                                                                                                                                                                      January/February 2023
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