Page 14 - TEXtalks. May-June 2023

14
Vietnam pays a heavy price for

dependence on Chinese Cotton

Imports from China’s Xinjiang province are increasing pressure on Vietnam’s apparel and footwear makers
that have already shed nearly 90,000 jobs since October as demand slowed.

The job losses might not be entirely due to the Xinjiang cotton factor. The global slowdown has had a larger
impact. The Uyghur Forced Labor Protection Act (UFLPA), is in place since June, requires companies to
prove that they do not use raw materials or components produced with Xinjiang’s forced labor.

The US customs authorities held up a total of $15 million worth of apparel and footwear shipments under
UFLPA out of which 80 percent were from Vietnam, and only 13 percent of its cargoes were cleared for entry,
U.S. customs data up to April 3 reveals.

According to official statistics, US customs checked nearly 3,600 shipments valued over $1 billion from
different countries to ascertain they did not carry goods with input from forced labor in Xinjiang. These
shipments represent a tiny portion of the $27 billion worth of garments and footwear Vietnam exported to the
U.S. last year. But the compliance risks may lead to more painful adjustments
for Vietnam.

Vietnam’s heavy reliance on cotton textile materials from China poses a significant risk of containing Xinjiang
cotton, as the province produces over 90 percent of China’s cotton. Vietnam could not significantly reduce
this dependence as Chinese investors mostly own the enterprises.

Regenerative wool could make

fashion more sustainable

Fashion brands are looking for a fabric with full sustainability credentials. They look for a fabric that stands
up to scrutiny, not only on carbon emissions but also the on impact it has on biodiversity, pollution,
recyclability, and the communities producing it.

Two friends scrutinized fibers from cashmere to pineapple skin before establishing their production capacity.
But in most cases how these materials were produced raised concerns. Bamboo for instance
biodegradable, but goes through intensive chemical manufacturing processes. Pineapple production uses
large amounts of agrochemicals and is usually grown in monoculture.

Wool is viewed as somewhat of a wonder fabric in the fashion industry because it is harder than most fibers,
requires less washing, and is recyclable. When wool returns to soil or water, it biodegrades, unlike
petroleum-based fabrics such as polyester. This makes it a strong contender for sustainable clothing that
lasts consumers decades.

Conventional wool production however is not fully climate-friendly; sheep emit methane, which is 28-36
times more potent than CO2. Conventional wool farming houses set stock grazing, where animals sit in the
same paddocks for long periods which can lead to desertification, biodiversity loss, and soil erosion.

May/June 2023