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problems and deaths common in non-organic cotton identified as: small-scale cotton farmers are all in need of a fairer BCI in Pakistan
production. Avoiding pesticides also reduces • Organic certification of fibres on basis of recog- deal for their cotton. Pakistan is the fourth largest producer of cotton in
production costs and farmer debts – the burden of nised international or national standards (IFOAM the world, and importantly also holds the third largest
pesticide debt has resulted in thousands of suicides family of standards, EEC 834/2007, USDA NOP) spinning capacity in Asia (after China and India) with
in India which is the world’s largest cotton producer. • Certification of fibres from conversion period is thousands of ginning and spinning units producing
3. GM (Genetic Modification) is banned in organic possible if the applicable farming standard permits textile products from cotton. For global supply and
systems, while an estimated a significant amount of such certification demand of Better Cotton in the future, Pakistan is a
all cotton grown worldwide is genetically modified. • A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade key strategic country and BCI have established a
GM cotton poses a potential risk to wildlife and ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) regional office to proactively manage the Better
human health, as well as exposing farmers to organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade The Better Cotton Initiative exists to make global Cotton relationships in the country, as well as
unnecessary expense. ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% cotton production better for the people who produce
4. There's restricted use of chemicals and limited certified organic fibres it, better for the environment it grows in and better for
residues. GOTS ensures that the chemicals used in the sector’s future, by developing Better Cotton as a
processing textiles meet strict requirements on sustainable mainstream commodity. The Better
toxicity and biodegradability. Final products are Cotton Standard System is a holistic approach to
restricted in the amount of allergenic, carcinogenic or sustainable cotton production which covers all three
toxic chemical residues. These residues can be pillars of sustainability: environmental, social and
inhaled or absorbed through the skin and may cause economic. Each of the elements – from the Produc-
allergies, skin rashes or respiratory problems. In tion Principles and Criteria to the monitoring mecha-
contrast, non-organic manufacture uses tens of nisms which show Results and Impact – work
thousands of acutely toxic chemicals, many of which together to support the Better Cotton Standard
are classified as hazardous by the World Health System, and the credibility of Better Cotton and BCI. high average temperatures and alternation between
Organisation (WHO). The system is designed to ensure the exchange of dry and wet seasons favours the growing of this
5. Factory conditions are better. Poor working good practices, and to encourage the scaling up of natural fibre crop. Sub-Saharan Africa is the fifth
conditions and rights in the garments industry are Fairtrade Cotton collective action to establish Better Cotton as a largest cotton exporter worldwide. Cotton is grown
common place. GOTS certified organic textiles must Complex issues in the global cotton industry mean sustainable mainstream commodity. The component there by about 3.4 million smallholder farmers. A total
meet social criteria based on the International Labour millions of small-scale farmers are struggling to make parts which make up the Better Cotton Standard of more than 20 million people in the region are
Organisation (ILO) conventions. These cover a decent living from growing cotton. With high levels System are listed below: directly or indirectly living from cotton. Cotton thus
minimum wages, working hours, child labour, of illiteracy and limited land holdings, many cotton 1. ‘Production Principles and Criteria’: providing a plays a key role in fighting poverty and makes a Global Recycled Standard
freedom of association, discrimination, harsh or farmers live below the poverty line and are depend- global definition of Better Cotton through 6 key major contribution to food security in many countries The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is a holistic
Thirteen of the world’s most renowned clothing and (RCS). In addition, Cotton Connect’s REEL inhumane treatment and more. ent on middle men or ginners who often buy their principles. Better Cotton is produced by farmers oversee the production going on at field level. BCI of sub-Saharan Africa The Cotton made in Africa certification for products with recycled content. The
textile companies have made a public commitment programme and code provides a starting point for cotton at prices below the cost of production. who: works with WWF-Pakistan, Lok Sanjh Foundation, initiative has set itself the goal since 2005 to sustain- desired effect of the GRS is to provide brands with a
to use cotton only from sustainable sources by 2025. businesses aiming to for greater sustainability in their Fairtrade works with the small-scale cotton farmers in a. minimise the harmful impact of crop protection CABI and Rural Education Economic and Education ably improve the living conditions of cotton farmers tool for more accurate labeling, to encourage
The agreement was reached in May 2017 at a cotton supply chain Asia and Africa and helps build stronger farm- practices. Development Society (REEDs). In 2014, 102,000 BCI in Sub-Saharan Africa. African smallholders learn innovation in the use of reclaimed materials, to
high-level meeting held at The British Academy, er-owned organisations. This is important because b. use water efficiently and care for the availability Farmers produced 310,000MT of Better Cotton lint about efficient and environmentally friendly cultiva- establish more transparency in the supply chain, and In addition to conventional quality monitoring and occur because of defects in the yarn used, in the
organised by The Prince of Wales’s International Organic Cotton farmers can achieve a lot more together as a group of water. on 353,000 hectares. Most of the BCI Farmers who tion methods through agricultural training provided to provide better information to consumers. assessment tools, the use of modern technology in weaving machine operation or from operator error.
Sustainability Unit (ISU). The companies are – Asos, Organic cotton benefits cotton producers and the in negotiations with ginners and traders or in support- c. care for the health of the soil. WWF-Pakistan works with are smallholders. BCI by CmiA experts. At the same time, CmiA establishes other fields has increasingly found its application in Many of these defects are spot type and small in
Eileen Fisher, Greenfibres, H&M, Ikea, Kering, Levi environment in developing countries by avoiding the ing the local community. d. conserve natural habitats. Farmers in Pakistan for example, achieved an an international alliance of textile companies which global textile industry. Two of the interesting examples nature, but there are also defects that may run the
Strauss & Co, Lindex, Marks & Spencer, Nike, potentially harmful effects of toxic pesticides, and the e. care for and preserve the quality of the fibre. average of 9% greater yields while using 15% less purchase the Cotton made in Africa raw material and in weaving and textile wet processing industry are whole length of a piece and if unnoticed will result in
Sainsbury’s, Tesco and Woolworths Holdings. Over reduced cost of production improves social Fairtrade encourages sustainable cotton production f. promote Decent Work. pesticide 18% less water. Further to achieving this, pay a licensing fee to use the seal. The proceeds summarised below. high waste levels. Once the cloth has been woven
the past year, ISU has been working in collaboration conditions. There are a number of reasons why and is the only standard to provide economic 2. ‘Capacity Building’: supporting and training they generated a staggering 46% increase in from licensing fees, in following with the workings of there may be several additional processes that add
with Marks & Spencer and The Soil Association to choosing organic cotton is important for both the benefits, through a guaranteed Fairtrade Minimum farmers in growing Better Cotton, through working income. a social business, are reinvested in the project Machine Vision Systems for Textile Industry value (dyeing, printing, coating) and if long running
convene leading companies and various environment and the people who grow and pick the GOTS Price and additional Fairtrade Premium for seed with experienced partners at field level. regions of Sub-Saharan Africa. Cotton made in Africa Home and Apparel Textile industry has traditionally defects are not detected prior to these processes
adopted innovation and the application of new
“standards” organisations to discuss how to reduce cotton: The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the cotton farmers. In 2014, 22 farmers’ organisations in 3. ‘Assurance Program’: regular farm assessment has made a commitment to not allowing genetically Recycled Claim Standard technologies to advance the overall performance of then additional cost is added to already sub-stand-
ard cloth, resulting in further waste of resources.
the negative environmental and social impacts 1. Organic fibres are grown without the use of worldwide leading textile processing standard for 7 countries were certified for Fairtrade cotton produc- and measurement of results through 8 consistent modified cotton to be grown under the initiative. The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an interna- processes and materials used and to control costs Traditionally loom operators have a set of looms they
associated with cotton production. synthetic fertilisers or potentially toxic pesticides. By organic fibres, including ecological and social tion and reported Premium earnings of approximately results indicators, encouraging farmers to continu- tional, voluntary standard that sets requirements for and quality. As manufacturing processes increase in are responsible for and should patrol them to check
building soil fertility, organic farmers help lock CO2 criteria, backed up by independent certification of the £800,000. A large percentage of this was invested in ously improve. Recycled Cotton third-party certification of Recycled input and chain speed and complexity, whilst at the same time safety for quality issues. In reality there is often insufficient
Sustainable Sources for Cotton into the soil, helping mitigate climate change. It also entire textile supply chain. Version 5.0 was published providing farmers with tools and inputs and support- 4. ‘Chain of Custody’: connecting supply and Recycled cotton comes from old garments and of custody. The list of companies certified, for and quality standards become more rigorous, the time for them to do this reliably and with the ever-in-
A communiqué following the agreement defines avoids the use of the toxic pesticides that, in on 1st of March 2017, 3 years after the Version 4.0 ing education and healthcare facilities in the local demand in the Better Cotton supply chain. textile leftovers, which are ground into fibres, spun recycled cotton and other fibres, to GRS (http://tex- need for an automated quality control solution is ever creasing production speeds of looms defects can
sustainable sources as organic, Fairtrade, Better non-organic systems, are responsible for poisoning was introduced and 12 years after the launch of the community. Fairtrade currently works with almost 5. ‘Claims framework’: spreading the word about into new yarns and woven into new fabrics. The use tileexchange.org/wp-content/up- more pressing. run a significant length before detection, if they are
Cotton Initiative (BCI), Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA) wildlife and rivers, as well as killing an estimated 1st Version. The high ecological and social require- 55,000 cotton farmers in some of the poorest regions Better Cotton by communicating powerful data, of recycled cotton is constantly growing, which loads/2017/08/GRS-Certified-Units-List-August-2017. ever detected.
and recycled cotton certified to an independently 16,000 people each year. ments as well as word-wide practicability and in the world. In 2014 Fairtrade certified producer information and stories from the field. means the use of new raw materials can be saved pdf) and RCS (http://textileexchange.org/wp-con- Weaving: On loom Inspection
verifiable standard such as the Global Recycled 2. By avoiding potentially toxic pesticides cotton verifiability were considered in the revision work, in organisations sold an average of 43 percent of their 6. ‘Results and Impact’: monitoring and evaluation Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) and old clothes can be stopped from going to waste. tent/up- Generally, the biggest cost component in creating Shelton Vision are specialists in the design,
Standard (GRS) or the Recycled Claim Standard workers benefit by avoiding the associated health order to achieve a reliable and transparent set of production volumes on Fairtrade terms, much higher mechanisms to measure progress/change, to ensure About 8% of the cotton traded in the world market is It is important to have a third part certification to label loads/2017/08/RCS-Certified-Units-List-August-2017. woven cloth is the raw material cost. The va
criteria. The key criteria for fibre production can be than in previous years. Meanwhile, globally, 90 million that Better Cotton delivers the intended impact. harvested in Sub-Saharan Africa. The climate, with its ‘made from recycled cotton’. pdf) includes companies from Pakistan. woven cloth can be downgraded by defects that may systems for surface and product inspection. Shelton

August/September 2017 August/September 2017

Vision have applied the power of high speed cloth product is transported to the consumer). The tool can
inspection to slow moving webs at a commercially be accessed at
realistic price level to detect defects in cloth at an https://watercalculator.dnvgl.com/Home/Form. The
early stage and limit the severity to manageable Global Network for Resource Efficient and Cleaner
levels. This means that machine vision systems can Production (RECPnet), supporting organizations in over
be fitted to every loom to eliminate long running and 60 developing countries, will facilitate the use of the tool,
repetitive defects. In addition, defect maps are which primarily targets small and medium-sized
created that can be used to efficiently find repairable companies. It will guide companies on the use of the
defects in high value cloth. The system claims to: tool and interpretation of results. In Pakistan, the
• Reduce in waste material being scrapped. RECPnet network member is National Cleaner
• Complete orders on time. Production Centre (NCPC) Foundation, Rawalpindi
• Increase throughput of repaired cloth. (http://www.ncpc.com.pk/). The tool consists of:
• Transmit reliable quality data to the next process, or • Introduction step: provide background information
customer. about your business: company size production, annual
production, raw material (fibre type), product, relevant
Textile Wet Processing: Water Calculation Tool manufacturing processes, water source and treatment.
Water scarcity affects more than 40 per cent of the • Water data: provide process specific data of water
global population, a number which is projected to consumption and quality, based on batch or
rise. While about 2.5 per cent of the world’s water is continuous processing, depending on the availability
of data (estimation, process control, measured data)
• Chemicals and discharge: provide information on
used chemicals and amount and quality of
discharged waste water
• The resulting report gives you an overview of your
water consumption, and compare it with regional
available indicators of best practice.

UNIDO is the specialized agency of the United
Nations that promotes industrial development for
poverty reduction, inclusive globalization and

freshwater, only 0.5 per cent of that amount is made
available to satisfy society’s needs. Water is also an
important resource in manufacturing processes,
including in the textile sector. Reducing water
consumption by establishing sustainable production
processes can therefore be an advantage for environmental sustainability. UNIDO meets the
companies as well as the communities they operate industrial development needs of its Member States
in. This is widely reflected in the United Nations’ through a variety of highly specialized and
Sustainable Development Goals, which aim, among differentiated services that promote social inclusion,
other things, to ensure sustainable production by economic competitiveness and environmental
companies and water access for all by 2030. sustainability, as well as cross-cutting activities in the
fields of industrial statistics, research and policy, and
UNIDO and DNV GL - Business Assurance have the promotion of knowledge networks and
joined forces to develop and implement projects in institutional partnerships.
the field of water footprint measurement and
promotion of water management best practices. DNV GL enables organizations to advance the safety
Foreseen projects include developing a water and sustainability of their business. It provides
footprint self-assessment tool to assist small and classification, technical assurance, software and
medium size enterprises (SMEs) in developing independent expert advisory services to the maritime,
countries to evaluate their water footprint in restricted oil & gas and energy industries. It also provides
stages of a product life cycle, specifically the certification services to customers across a wide
so-called ‘cradle-to-gate’ assessment from range of industries. Operating in more than 100
agricultural production through processing and countries, with experts dedicated to help customers
production up to the factory gate (i.e. before the and make the world safer, smarter and greener.