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emerging global trends are summarised below. It is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        become a key exporter of denim, home textiles and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        garments. The textile industry is now the backbone of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          pertinent to mention that usually two or more of these
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Pakistan’s economy, contributing 8.5% to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          trends are interconnected.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        country’s GDP and 60% to export receipts, providing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Sustainability
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        employment for 3.5 million people.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Textiles are heavily intertwined with environmental,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Rationale for change
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          social and governance issues. In the past, efforts of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Despite these promising statistics, Pakistan’s
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          producers and retailers have primarily focused on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          improving the social aspects of textiles e.g.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        competitive advantage diminishes due to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          establishing fair working conditions, setting social
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        predominantly export of low-end textiles products.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Low-cost yet highly skilled labour of Pakistan has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          standards, establishing minimum wages, ensuring
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        always remained a reason of interest of global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          occupational safety, imposing a ban on child and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          forced labour, etc. Over the years, however, there has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        businesses in the textile supply chain but at the same
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        time low productivity is a hurdle to unleash the full
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          been growing concern about the environmental
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        potential. However, the share of man-made fibres has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          impacts of textiles.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        significantly grown in the global fibre mix and in all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          •  By improving their environmental and social

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the fibres produced worldwide, cotton accounts for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            performances, brands can improve their
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           reputation;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        about one fourth. However, Pakistan’s textile industry
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        is dominantly reliant on cotton only. Pakistan’s textile
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          •  Linking business to social and environmental
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        industry has not lived up to its full potential amid the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            projects enables companies to build a strong
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            connection with consumers by involving them in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        domestic and global challenges - at micro and macro
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        scale. The energy shortage and fluctuations in cotton
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            sustainability initiatives;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        crop has been two major issues in the resent years.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          •  Technological innovation in production processes,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The lack of initiatives by the governments and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            along the supply chain which contribute to improve
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the environmental footprint of processes and which
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        discontinuity of policies is not helpful as well. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        crisis has been building up over years and this critical
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            may save costs, enabling the use of more recycled
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            materials i.e. end of life polyester can be recycled
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        situation has led to recession of the local industry.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The strategic geographic location of Pakistan and the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            into new clothes;
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          •  There are already well established environmental
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        recent progress in CPEC (China Pakistan economic
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            labels that producers can apply for to prove their
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Corridor) can attract the investors’ interest in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            superior environmental performances (such as the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Pakistan, from around the globe. Amid all the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        potential, the textile industry is facing challenges and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            EU Ecolabel, Blue Angel, Nordic Swan, GOTS).
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        a clear vision is the indispensable. Keeping in view
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Re-shoring
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the current state of the industry and the emerging
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Cost has played a critical role in outsourcing the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        global trends, it is pivotal to explore new ideas and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          industry to the far East. In recent years, due to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        avenues to revive the local textile industry – a wish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          automation and as costs of labour in outsourced
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to progress without the quest of new ideas
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        would lead us nowhere. The visionary
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          regions have increased, the textile industry in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        leadership of the global “textile” village need
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          developed countries is showing signs of recovering
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to present, articulate, nurture and elaborate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          from a decade long exodus. One recent example is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        new ideas as the fight of progress without
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          opening of a cotton spinning mills in UK, after the last
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        feathers of ideas is not easy.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          one closed in 1980s. Similarly, Burberry announced
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          plans to invest over £50 million to expand its
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Global Trends - to aspire and inspire
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          production in the North of England. Hence, the global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        TEXtalks has taken this initiative to bring together all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          competitiveness and attractiveness of global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               textile industry is dominantly reliant on cotton and is a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the key stakeholders to sit, to discuss and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Fast fa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          businesses is important as reshoring is a looming (in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               key player in the global cotton industry. World fibre
                                                                                                                                                                                   rotors. The weaving sector comprises of 36,700
                                                                                                                                 industry was operational with about 177,000 spindles
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        disseminate the latest trends & innovations and to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Fast Fa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               demand rose for the eighth year in succession in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the long term) threat, especially when it is linked to
                                                                                                                                                                                   air-jet/shuttle-less looms and 375,000 power looms
                                                                                                                                 in six spinning mills and a cottage industry of some
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        propose solutions for sustainable growth of the Textile
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 get new
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               2016 to a record high. The use of sustainable
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the concept of circular economy and mass
                                                                                                                                 5,000 weaving looms. The sector could only meet
                                                                                                                                                                                   and 15,000 knitting machines. The downstream
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        industry. The “Inspiring Change” conference aims to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 quickly
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               sources and means for fibre production, recycling of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          customisation. Mass customisation services allow
                                                                                                                                                                                   sectors of dyeing, printing, finishing and garment
                                                                                                                                 around 8% of domestic demand of a population of 76
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        provide a platform to the textile experts to share and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 consume
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          customers to participate in the design of their products,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               fibres and the demand on performance fibres are the
                                                                                                                                 million people. Since then, the textile industry in
                                                                                                                                                                                   making have expanded to 4.9 billion square metre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        align their thoughts and ideas to subsequently
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Brands
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               key trends in the sector. The need for fibre mix
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          which are then built to order in large-scale factories.
                                                                                                                                                                                   fabric processing capacity, around 5,000 garment
                                                                                                                                 Pakistan has witnessed phenomenal growth and has
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        suggest next steps to enhance the global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 among t
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               diversification is important as the world cannot
                                                                                                                                 undergone numerous changes. At present, the textile
                                                                                                                                                                                   factories.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        competitiveness and attract endeavours in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Fibre mix
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 latter
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               produce enough cotton to meet consumer needs.
                                                                                                                                                                                   As a major producer of cotton Pakistan has now
                                                                                                                                 industry in Pakistan is a heavily technology-driven
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        value-added sector to ultimately pave the way for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 launche
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Cotton is the key part of Pakistan’s agro economy.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               However, Pakistan needs to exploit the full potential
                                                                                                                                 process with 471 spinning plants equipped with 13.4
                                                                                                                                                                                   become one of the world’s leading exporters of
       30                                                                                                                        At the inception of Pakistan in 1947, the textile   million spindles and more than 200,000 open-end   31                                                               cotton yarns and cotton cloth, as well as having   sustainable growth of the textile industry. Some of the             Cotton is a fibre of consumer preference. Pakistan’s   of
                                                                                                                                   would only take 15 days for a garment to go from   manufacturing clearly hints towards growing global
                                                                                                                                   concept to completion.                            trends. On-demand manufacturing represents an
                                                                                                                                                                                     evolution in procurement and supply chain
                                                                                                                                   The fast fashion industry has come under fire in   management thought, bringing together the best of
                                                                                                                                   recent years for its impact on the environment, as   previous concepts, such as just-in-time
                                                                                                                                   well as suggestions that the demand for cheap     manufacturing, which focuses on streamlining
                                                                                                                                   clothing is driving poor working and labour       operations, and lean manufacturing principles, which
                                                                                                                                   conditions. Interestingly, research shows that 19% of   seeks to drive waste from processes.
                                                                                                                                   the top fast fashion related searches are linked to the
                                                                                                                                   environment, ethics and sustainability. In order to   An enabling platform
                                                                                                                                   counteract this, many brands are now displaying   “Inspiring Change” is the first of a series of
                                                                                                                                   increased levels of transparency, with some also   conferences to provide an enabling environment to
                                                                                                                                   introducing initiatives relating to ethical and   the local textile industry. It is clear that there is a need
                                                                                                                                   environmental issues.                             to bring together all stakeholders to identify,
                                                                                                                                                                                     recognise and propose solutions to the problems
                                                                                                                                   Industry 4.0                                      faced and exploit the untapped potential of the local
                                                                                                                                   Industry 4.0 is the buzzword that accompanies the   textile industry. The first conference aims to frame the
                                                                                                                                   emergence of smart factories in the 4th industrial   problems, present solutions and provide a common
                                                                                                                                   revolution, the digital era. Smart factories have a high   ground for stakeholders to work together for a
                                                                                                                                   level of both automation and digitization. Machines   common cause – to uplift the sustainable growth of
                                                                                                                                   are self-optimizing, self-configuring and slow Artificial   local textile industry in line with the global trends.
                                                                                                                                   Intelligence as well as machine learning can be   The event is planned to be more than an intellectual
                                                                                                                                   unleashed upon the data these machines generate.   activity, the aim is to channelise the information to
                                                                                                                                   An IoT layer is added to all particles of a factory so   decision-makers and influencers to inform the future
                                                                                                                                   that all machines can talk to each other and other   policies and direction. Following the conference,
                                                                                                                                   business units, like purchasing, transport, Sales and   TEXtalks in its coming issues will review and present
                                                                                                                                   even HR. This will generate a superior level of   the changes and developments to the stakeholders.
                                                                                                                                   cost-efficiency and the ability to match supply and   Hence it will provide an enabling platform to not only
                                                                                                                                   demand seamlessly. This linked with e-commerce    recognise solutions but will also play a role to monitor
                                                                                                                                   activities can completely change the way textile   the progress. This continuous drive will feed into the
                                                                                                                                   industry currently operates.                      future events under the umbrella of “Inspiring
                                                                                                                                   The recent patent by Amazon for on-demand apparel   Change”.
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