Page 31 - January-February-2018

emerging global trends are summarised below. It is
become a key exporter of denim, home textiles and
garments. The textile industry is now the backbone of
pertinent to mention that usually two or more of these
Pakistan’s economy, contributing 8.5% to the
trends are interconnected.
country’s GDP and 60% to export receipts, providing
Sustainability
employment for 3.5 million people.
Textiles are heavily intertwined with environmental,
Rationale for change
social and governance issues. In the past, efforts of
Despite these promising statistics, Pakistan’s
producers and retailers have primarily focused on
improving the social aspects of textiles e.g.
competitive advantage diminishes due to
establishing fair working conditions, setting social
predominantly export of low-end textiles products.
Low-cost yet highly skilled labour of Pakistan has
standards, establishing minimum wages, ensuring
always remained a reason of interest of global
occupational safety, imposing a ban on child and
forced labour, etc. Over the years, however, there has
businesses in the textile supply chain but at the same
time low productivity is a hurdle to unleash the full
been growing concern about the environmental
potential. However, the share of man-made fibres has
impacts of textiles.

significantly grown in the global fibre mix and in all
• By improving their environmental and social

the fibres produced worldwide, cotton accounts for
performances, brands can improve their
reputation;
about one fourth. However, Pakistan’s textile industry
is dominantly reliant on cotton only. Pakistan’s textile
• Linking business to social and environmental
industry has not lived up to its full potential amid the
projects enables companies to build a strong
connection with consumers by involving them in
domestic and global challenges - at micro and macro
scale. The energy shortage and fluctuations in cotton
sustainability initiatives;
crop has been two major issues in the resent years.
• Technological innovation in production processes,
The lack of initiatives by the governments and
along the supply chain which contribute to improve
the environmental footprint of processes and which
discontinuity of policies is not helpful as well. The
crisis has been building up over years and this critical
may save costs, enabling the use of more recycled
materials i.e. end of life polyester can be recycled
situation has led to recession of the local industry.
The strategic geographic location of Pakistan and the
into new clothes;
• There are already well established environmental
recent progress in CPEC (China Pakistan economic
labels that producers can apply for to prove their
Corridor) can attract the investors’ interest in
superior environmental performances (such as the
Pakistan, from around the globe. Amid all the
potential, the textile industry is facing challenges and
EU Ecolabel, Blue Angel, Nordic Swan, GOTS).
a clear vision is the indispensable. Keeping in view
Re-shoring
the current state of the industry and the emerging
Cost has played a critical role in outsourcing the
global trends, it is pivotal to explore new ideas and
industry to the far East. In recent years, due to
avenues to revive the local textile industry – a wish
automation and as costs of labour in outsourced
to progress without the quest of new ideas
would lead us nowhere. The visionary
regions have increased, the textile industry in
leadership of the global “textile” village need
developed countries is showing signs of recovering
to present, articulate, nurture and elaborate
from a decade long exodus. One recent example is
new ideas as the fight of progress without
opening of a cotton spinning mills in UK, after the last
feathers of ideas is not easy.
one closed in 1980s. Similarly, Burberry announced
plans to invest over £50 million to expand its
Global Trends - to aspire and inspire
production in the North of England. Hence, the global
TEXtalks has taken this initiative to bring together all
competitiveness and attractiveness of global
textile industry is dominantly reliant on cotton and is a
the key stakeholders to sit, to discuss and
Fast fashion
businesses is important as reshoring is a looming (in
key player in the global cotton industry. World fibre
rotors. The weaving sector comprises of 36,700
industry was operational with about 177,000 spindles
disseminate the latest trends & innovations and to
Fast Fashion accelerates the production process to
demand rose for the eighth year in succession in
the long term) threat, especially when it is linked to
air-jet/shuttle-less looms and 375,000 power looms
in six spinning mills and a cottage industry of some
propose solutions for sustainable growth of the Textile
get new catwalk trends into stores or online as
2016 to a record high. The use of sustainable
the concept of circular economy and mass
5,000 weaving looms. The sector could only meet
and 15,000 knitting machines. The downstream
industry. The “Inspiring Change” conference aims to
quickly as possible. It also reflects the growing
sources and means for fibre production, recycling of
customisation. Mass customisation services allow
sectors of dyeing, printing, finishing and garment
around 8% of domestic demand of a population of 76
provide a platform to the textile experts to share and
consumer desire for speed and value within retail.
customers to participate in the design of their products,
fibres and the demand on performance fibres are the
million people. Since then, the textile industry in
making have expanded to 4.9 billion square metre
align their thoughts and ideas to subsequently
Brands such as H&M and Zara were said to be
key trends in the sector. The need for fibre mix
which are then built to order in large-scale factories.
fabric processing capacity, around 5,000 garment
Pakistan has witnessed phenomenal growth and has
suggest next steps to enhance the global
among the very first fast fashion retailers. When the
diversification is important as the world cannot
undergone numerous changes. At present, the textile
factories.
competitiveness and attract endeavours in
Fibre mix
latter opened its first US store in 1990 (having first
produce enough cotton to meet consumer needs.
As a major producer of cotton Pakistan has now
industry in Pakistan is a heavily technology-driven
value-added sector to ultimately pave the way for
launched in Spain in the 1970s) it announced that it
Cotton is the key part of Pakistan’s agro economy.
However, Pakistan needs to exploit the full potential
process with 471 spinning plants equipped with 13.4
become one of the world’s leading exporters of
30 At the inception of Pakistan in 1947, the textile million spindles and more than 200,000 open-end 31 cotton yarns and cotton cloth, as well as having sustainable growth of the textile industry. Some of the Cotton is a fibre of consumer preference. Pakistan’s of cotton fibre.
would only take 15 days for a garment to go from manufacturing clearly hints towards growing global
concept to completion. trends. On-demand manufacturing represents an
evolution in procurement and supply chain
The fast fashion industry has come under fire in management thought, bringing together the best of
recent years for its impact on the environment, as previous concepts, such as just-in-time
well as suggestions that the demand for cheap manufacturing, which focuses on streamlining
clothing is driving poor working and labour operations, and lean manufacturing principles, which
conditions. Interestingly, research shows that 19% of seeks to drive waste from processes.
the top fast fashion related searches are linked to the
environment, ethics and sustainability. In order to An enabling platform
counteract this, many brands are now displaying “Inspiring Change” is the first of a series of
increased levels of transparency, with some also conferences to provide an enabling environment to
introducing initiatives relating to ethical and the local textile industry. It is clear that there is a need
environmental issues. to bring together all stakeholders to identify,
recognise and propose solutions to the problems
Industry 4.0 faced and exploit the untapped potential of the local
Industry 4.0 is the buzzword that accompanies the textile industry. The first conference aims to frame the
emergence of smart factories in the 4th industrial problems, present solutions and provide a common
revolution, the digital era. Smart factories have a high ground for stakeholders to work together for a
level of both automation and digitization. Machines common cause – to uplift the sustainable growth of
are self-optimizing, self-configuring and slow Artificial local textile industry in line with the global trends.
Intelligence as well as machine learning can be The event is planned to be more than an intellectual
unleashed upon the data these machines generate. activity, the aim is to channelise the information to
An IoT layer is added to all particles of a factory so decision-makers and influencers to inform the future
that all machines can talk to each other and other policies and direction. Following the conference,
business units, like purchasing, transport, Sales and TEXtalks in its coming issues will review and present
even HR. This will generate a superior level of the changes and developments to the stakeholders.
cost-efficiency and the ability to match supply and Hence it will provide an enabling platform to not only
demand seamlessly. This linked with e-commerce recognise solutions but will also play a role to monitor
activities can completely change the way textile the progress. This continuous drive will feed into the
industry currently operates. future events under the umbrella of “Inspiring
The recent patent by Amazon for on-demand apparel Change”.
January/February 2018 January/February 2018