Page 43 - January-February-2021

developed a new campaign called “COTTON USA
SOLUTIONS®” which comprises of five different
offerings including the Mill Mastery™ Course. These
and the course extends as per our scope. The Mill
must move with the times especially given the
all are complementary for our customers as long as
Mastery course will help us to improve recovery,
challenges of fast fashion, decreased garment
they meet two criteria: (1) the mill should be a
prices, and thin margins throughout the value chain.
strength and yarn quality. We have learned many new
COTTON USA licensee, and (2) the mill should be a
Pakistan is a great position to build on our strengths
things with quality information. Micronaire, maturity
member of the new US Cotton Trust Protocol
levels, neps and how to manage seed-coat
and benefit from the global issues such as the US
program, the US cotton industry’s new sustainability
fragments and were very useful sessions. CCI needs
taking a hard stand on China, Xinjiang cotton and
program for US cotton.”
their practices with the people of Xinjiang; the US
to advertise this more so that everybody could get
and other European brands now want to move out of
relevant benefit from it.”
Upon asking about what roles the modules play in
China. As they moved out of China, hopefully,
the Mill Program, Joerg said, “We having training
Pakistan can take a bigger share along with India,
modules starting with cotton growing, harvesting,
Vietnam and Bangladesh.
cotton buying and fiber quality then we go through
team for a successful Mill Mastery program. It’s a
the entire process starting from the blow room all the
great initiative that CCI has started which will help our
While discussing Pakistan’s cotton and export
upland cotton for last three years. With the help of
way down to winding. We also have included a
team to learn and understand how to improve the
market, Adeel said, “As improvement is a continuous
module about industrial engineering, profitability,
CCI Mill Mastery™ Course, we have been able to
processes in the mill with the better usage of USA
process, that’s what we strive for here in Tata
economics of spinning that all comes totally free of
optimize our process by proper allocation of cotton
cotton. The Mill Mastery™ Course has helped us to
Pakistan, I hope we can keep on improving and
charge. Depending on the needs of our customers,
for weaving and knitting yarns.”
clear out a lot of issues that my team had regarding
expanding gradually. More we expand, will be a
we are also going to customize a tailor-made course
US cotton and hopefully they will now be able to
bigger market for US cotton as my Father and I am
He added, “Now, we are running two different types
for our customers that can be in person or virtual.”
make a better use of it to get quality yarn. The mill
the biggest champions of US cotton. Overall US
of blends. For knitting end use, we have narrowed
audits again are good initiative by CCI which helped
cotton is the best cotton. Many customers are
the range of color parameters like Rd and +B, also
us to improve our own benchmark. After having
already shifted to Pakistan and I think, it’s just a start.
micronaire value to avoid shade variability problem
primarily discussion with our team, we have taken out
If we can give them the right services, with the right
and for maintaining fabric consistency. For knitting
few points and hopefully we will improve our process.”
quality and right price, I don’t think they will be
yarns, we started to compromise on staple and GPT.
moving back. Everyone is getting up for major
While, for weaving end use we started using longer
CCI’s global technical team is the foundation of this
expansions and I hope that Pakistan can grow in the
Muhammad Sehban, Vice President of Island Textile
staple lengths with better GPT wile opening the range
new program which is designed to help customers of
textile field.”
Mills discussed how this program can strengthen our
of color and micronaire, as the requirement here is
US cotton get the maximum performance from US
cotton practices. “This is a very good initiative by the
the good running performance. By this we can
cotton fibre. The Mill Mastery™ Course presently
The hard work and the efforts of the Pakistan’s
CCI of having a mill mastery course. We will give
reduce one step our twist multiplier by maintaining
includes three modules designed to offer tailor-made
spinning industry left a mark on Joerg Bauersachs as
some suggestions to them as well, if they add some
the same parameters of yarn strength. This has been
customized solutions for US cotton customers. In the
he said, “The spinning industry in Pakistan is mature
practical examples of this course that they have given
giving us very good results in increasing our
future, CCI will offer 15 modules of the Mill Mastery™
as they started in the fifties and during all this time
us of advantages of using the USA Cotton. This will
productivity.”
Course. COTTON USA SOLUTIONS® also feature
the industry has developed strategies and
further add very organized course. The most
mill studies, technical seminars, 1:1 mill consults,
technologies. I have seen the mills are running at the
interesting chapter of this mill mastery course for me
and CCI’s Mill Exchange Program.
expressed his gratitude by addressing “First of all, I
highest speeds with low ends down on the machines,
was about “short fiber” and how to use short fiber to
with very low cut levels on the winders. I have
our advantage. The second subject that I loved was
Coming to the technical management side of the
Joerg Bauersachs, Head of CCI’s Technical Services
travelled to many countries and visited many mills.
about “stickiness” in the cotton and how to check for
Tata Textile Mills, Hafiz Imran Aslam, the Vice
explained “we from CCI, are always there for our
Here I see that Pakistani products are excellent
it and manage it in our processing”.
president also had a few words to say about this
customers. We are supporting our representatives
quality yarn and have high profitability. I am really
training program, “It was very good experience and
impressed.”
Adeel Tata thinks that USCTP is a good initiative but
most importantly, for the Mill Mastery™ Course, all
it’s becoming a little confusing, as the brands are
the team members of Tata Pakistan belonging to
At the end, Mazhar Hussain Mirza, CCI’s Pakistan
also taking their own initiatives. He said that right
cotton buying, mills management and the technical
Representative, thanked to all the participants and
now, we have BCI, Inditex, GOTS, OEKO-TEX,
team sit together and having a common
CCI overseas trainers for their valuable contribution
Primark, CMI etc. He thinks its overall the same thing
understanding on all the parameters to produce
especially in these Covid-19 crucial days. He hoped,
and if everybody gets together and comes under one
different quality yarns like knitting, weaving and
after these Mill Mastery™ Courses, the Mills
umbrella it will be easier for entire chain to be able to
denim. This is important specially in the days, where
management will have now better understanding
(Muzaffargarh) and Ellcot Spinning Mills (Raiwand).
SOLUTIONS® consultancy is famous for helping the
practices.
the profitability of a mill is very crucial for everyone.”
regarding cotton parameters which effect the yarn
textile industry in over 50 countries turn into proper
The Mill Mastery courses, by CCI, were a wonderful
quality. He also assured to continue these programs
businesses by lending a helping hand through their
experience which has given an opportunity to mills’
The future of Pakistan’s textile industry seems very
Ihsan-ur-Rehman, Technical Director of Ellcot
A few members from the technical management
and to add some more features in coming days.
management teams to learn about the advantages of
expertise, modern technical solutions and
bright, especially with the government policies being
Spinning Mills had a very positive feedback after a
department of Tata Mills also gave their insights and
techniques. Moreover, they are back with a
using the top quality sustainable USA cotton and how
couple of weeks after course with implementing the
reviews about the training program. Adnan Alam,
one-of-a-kind initiative which is, one to several days
to utilize it in the best way, in Pakistan’s environment
changes, “We have about 62,000 spindles capacity
Senior Vice President of Salfi Textile Mills explained,
training, Mill Mastery™ Course. Two of these
to get the quality yarn and fabric products.
42 From the king of the cotton world, COTTON USA workshops were held at Tata Textile Mills Ltd Adeel Shahid Tata, Director of Tata Textile Mills am very thankful to Mazhar Mirza and COTTON USA 43 and licensees in the respective markets. We have out of which 20,000 are allocated purely for US “It was very informative, and we have learned a lot on the right track. The textile and garment industries
No sustainability without innovation
TINTEX and BRÜCKNER
strive for new paths together
Screen coating unit Infrared dryer at the machine outlet
which has unbeatable benefits especially with regard easily converted from screen coating to a
to the requirements of temperature uniformity, the knife-over-cylinder system. The counter pressure
thermal treatment of synthetic fibre blends and other roller is then used as coating cylinder.
constructive issues. Even very difficult knitted fabric
with high elastane content can now be directly A laminating/embossing calender integrated in the
coated or functionalized. Until now, such coatings outfeed of the stenter allows various effects to be
were only possible in an indirect coating process. achieved on the fabric, e.g. a leather grain. If the
applied stable foam coating has a certain layer
The heart of the new line is the proven, but constantly thickness, this effect can be achieved after the drying
further developed and optimized POWER-FRAME passage in the laminating calender by means of a
stenter frame dryer. The inlet and outlet components fed release paper or an appropriate embossing roller.
are specially designed for sensitive fabric and ensure Even with sensitive, directly coated knitted fabric, this
a tensionless fabric run. A special, newly developed calender can be used to apply e.g. a film, a
General view of the new line at TINTEX in PortugalI
coating unit is integrated in the infeed stand of the membrane or a second textile web onto the fabric.
The Portuguese textile company TINTEX Textiles S.A. decided to cooperate with the German textile stenter frame. Due to its variable design, two different For this purpose, the calender is additionally
and the German textile machinery manufacturer machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER. Their product application processes are possible on the same line. equipped with an electric short-wave infrared dryer.
BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG range includes machines and complete lines for In the so-called screen coating process, water-based
make a big step into the future together. A completely coating and finishing of textiles, technical textiles, pastes and stable or unstable foams are applied onto For simple heat-setting processes a special roller has
new developed process technology for coating non-wovens and floor coverings. With their own the fabric with high precision by means of a driven, been developed which can be inserted into the
bi-elastic knitted fabric opens new markets and new production site in the south of Germany, completely cylindrical screen and a squeegee system integrated coating unit instead of the screen and thus acts as
possibilities for both sides. re-built in 2018, BRÜCKNER has become even more in the screen. the upper infeed roller. Even very tension-sensitive
flexible and competitive. The family-run company was knitwear can be run with an overfeed of up to 60 %
The modern textile company TINTEX is located in founded in 1949 and is today managed in the For paste coating, the machine parameters can be before heat-setting.
Villa Nova, not far from the Spanish border in second generation by Regina Brückner and her adjusted in such a way that a single-side coating is
northern Portugal. The company was founded in husband Axel Pieper. Still valid today, the values and possible even on light knitwear made of cotton or This new multifunctional line can therefore be used
1998 in the region of Porto. The product range visions of the company founder are the key to viscose, provided the paste is of a suitable viscosity. for heat-setting, drying and coating processes. It can
includes functional tricot fabrics for well-known success: the production of high-quality lines, the For the stable foam coating, the coating medium is be used to manufacture products comparable to
fashion, sports and lingerie brands. TINTEX is development of sustainable and innovative mixed to foam with an exact foam/liter weight of 150 those previously produced with indirect coating - but
convinced that fashion can truly make a difference in technologies and the competent and comprehensive to 300 g/l. With an integrated feed pump, this foam without having to rely on cost-intensive release paper.
can be precisely dosed and applied to the textile
At TINTEX in Portugal, production on this line has
THE FIRST RECYCLED SOFTENER EL PRIMER SUAVIZANTE RECICLABLE tackling climate change. That is why their engineers advice of their customers. through the screen. Also in the case of unstable foam already been running for some time and research
are constantly developing new strategies and
environmentally friendly concepts throughout the Since both companies, TINTEX and BRÜCKNER, coating, the coating medium is foamed up with a into completely new types of textiles is continuing. At
whole production process. The technologists' share the same philosophy, the basis for constructive mixer and applied to the textile in exact doses. Here Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX even won the Hightex
CHT’s Circular System El sistema circular de la CHT expertise covers the entire textile supply chain, and goal-oriented product development was quickly the foam/liter weight is 30 to 100 g/l. Award with such newly developed pro-ducts, as well
Silicone is a versatile material that finds use in a wide La silicona es un material versátil que se utiliza en una including dyeing and finishing techniques as well as established. The vision of TINTEX was to be able to As the unstable foam collapses shortly after leaving as the Innovation Award at Techtextil in Frankfurt.
range of different applications, and as such its commercial amplia gama de aplicaciones diferentes y, como tal, su coatings. achieve completely new effects on bi-elastic knitwear the screen, a single-side functionalization with a very
and to produce fabrics that did not even exist before.
importance is significant. Silicones are an integral part importancia comercial es significativa. Las siliconas son No sustainability without innovation This was followed by numerous tests in the low pick-up of less than 10-20 % can be achieved. BRÜCKNER is very proud to have customers like
TINTEX who act with foresight and do not strive for
of textile finishing as softeners, waterproofing agents, parte integral del acabado de los artículos textiles en forma True to this motto, TINTEX is constantly researching Technology Centre at BRÜCKNER in Leonberg and This is a minimum application with the corresponding short-term profit optimization. The goal is always to
defoaming agents or lubricants. However, the production de suavizantes, agentes impermeabilizantes, antiespumantes for fabric innovations to develop and produce on a BRÜCKNER line in an institute for textile and benefits, e.g. considerable energy and thus cost think and act with a long-term perspective, be-cause
of silicones is extremely energy intensive. In order to o lubricantes. Sin embargo, la producción de siliconas es intelligent, functional and high-performance textiles. process engineering near Stuttgart. So a new, savings in the subsequent drying process. If you this is the only way how BRÜCKNER and their
want to coat somewhat more stable fabric or apply
fully exploit the value of this resource, end-of-life silicone extremadamente intensiva en energía. Con el fin de explotar To round off the concept, a few years ago it was revolutionary line concept was worked out together, higher coating weights, the unit can be quickly and customers can be successful in the long run.
products are recycled. As a result, today’s silicone waste plenamente el valor de este recurso, los productos de
can be used to produce an important alternative raw silicona al final de su vida útil se pueden reciclar. Como January/February 2021 January/February 2021
material for tomorrow. resultado, los residuos de silicona de hoy pueden ser
utilizados para producir una importante materia prima
alternativa para el mañana.
New way of thinking - new way of creating
Post-consumed products normally become waste. CHT
uses this post-consumed materials as new raw material. Nueva forma de pensar - nueva forma de crear
TUBINGAL RISE can be applied on new textiles. These Los productos consumidos se convierten en desperdicios.
textiles can be used and subsequently recycled back again. La CHT usa estos productos consumidos como nueva
This represents a circular economy. materia prima. El TUBINGAL RISE, se puede aplicar
a textiles nuevos. Estos textiles se pueden usar y
End-of-life Silicones la economía circular.
posteriormente volver a ser reciclados otra vez. Esto es
RETAKE REGENERATE REMAKE REUSE
„End-of-life Silicones“ Recycling to silicone oil, Application of softener New textiles are used
are collected and then processing to the on textiles (e.g. recycled and can be recycled
processed softener TUBINGAL RISE materials rPES, rCO) again.
End-of-Life Polymer
WASTE Silicone recycling follows the waste-to-value process
TO and takes place across several stages. End-of-life
polymers are catalytically split into silicone monomers,
VALUE modified, and then finally polymerized into e.g. a new
Polymer Monomere amino-modified silicone in virgin quality, which can be
formulated into a fabric softener.