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developed a new campaign called “COTTON USA
SOLUTIONS®” which comprises of five different
offerings including the Mill Mastery™ Course. These
must move with the times especially given the
and the course extends as per our scope. The Mill
all are complementary for our customers as long as
Mastery course will help us to improve recovery,
challenges of fast fashion, decreased garment
they meet two criteria: (1) the mill should be a
prices, and thin margins throughout the value chain.
strength and yarn quality. We have learned many new
COTTON USA licensee, and (2) the mill should be a
things with quality information. Micronaire, maturity
Pakistan is a great position to build on our strengths
member of the new US Cotton Trust Protocol
levels, neps and how to manage seed-coat
and benefit from the global issues such as the US
program, the US cotton industry’s new sustainability
fragments and were very useful sessions. CCI needs
taking a hard stand on China, Xinjiang cotton and
program for US cotton.”
to advertise this more so that everybody could get
their practices with the people of Xinjiang; the US
relevant benefit from it.”
and other European brands now want to move out of
Upon asking about what roles the modules play in
China. As they moved out of China, hopefully,
the Mill Program, Joerg said, “We having training
Pakistan can take a bigger share along with India,
modules starting with cotton growing, harvesting,
am very thankful to Mazhar Mirza and COTTON USA
Vietnam and Bangladesh.
cotton buying and fiber quality then we go through
team for a successful Mill Mastery program. It’s a
the entire process starting from the blow room all the
great initiative that CCI has started which will help our
While discussing Pakistan’s cotton and export
way down to winding. We also have included a
upland cotton for last three years. With the help of
team to learn and understand how to improve the
market, Adeel said, “As improvement is a continuous
CCI Mill Mastery™ Course, we have been able to
module about industrial engineering, profitability,
processes in the mill with the better usage of USA
process, that’s what we strive for here in Tata
economics of spinning that all comes totally free of
optimize our process by proper allocation of cotton
cotton. The Mill Mastery™ Course has helped us to
Pakistan, I hope we can keep on improving and
charge. Depending on the needs of our customers,
for weaving and knitting yarns.”
clear out a lot of issues that my team had regarding
expanding gradually. More we expand, will be a
we are also going to customize a tailor-made course
US cotton and hopefully they will now be able to
bigger market for US cotton as my Father and I am
He added, “Now, we are running two different types
for our customers that can be in person or virtual.”
make a better use of it to get quality yarn. The mill
the biggest champions of US cotton. Overall US
of blends. For knitting end use, we have narrowed
audits again are good initiative by CCI which helped
cotton is the best cotton. Many customers are
the range of color parameters like Rd and +B, also
us to improve our own benchmark. After having
already shifted to Pakistan and I think, it’s just a start.
micronaire value to avoid shade variability problem
primarily discussion with our team, we have taken out
If we can give them the right services, with the right
and for maintaining fabric consistency. For knitting
few points and hopefully we will improve our process.”
quality and right price, I don’t think they will be
yarns, we started to compromise on staple and GPT.
moving back. Everyone is getting up for major
While, for weaving end use we started using longer
CCI’s global technical team is the foundation of this
expansions and I hope that Pakistan can grow in the
Muhammad Sehban, Vice President of Island Textile
staple lengths with better GPT wile opening the range
new program which is designed to help customers of
textile field.”
Mills discussed how this program can strengthen our
of color and micronaire, as the requirement here is
US cotton get the maximum performance from US
cotton practices. “This is a very good initiative by the
the good running performance. By this we can
cotton fibre. The Mill Mastery™ Course presently
The hard work and the efforts of the Pakistan’s
CCI of having a mill mastery course. We will give
reduce one step our twist multiplier by maintaining
includes three modules designed to offer tailor-made
spinning industry left a mark on Joerg Bauersachs as
some suggestions to them as well, if they add some
the same parameters of yarn strength. This has been
customized solutions for US cotton customers. In the
he said, “The spinning industry in Pakistan is mature
practical examples of this course that they have given
giving us very good results in increasing our
future, CCI will offer 15 modules of the Mill Mastery™
as they started in the fifties and during all this time
us of advantages of using the USA Cotton. This will
productivity.”
Course. COTTON USA SOLUTIONS® also feature
the industry has developed strategies and
further add very organized course. The most
mill studies, technical seminars, 1:1 mill consults,
Adeel Shahid Tata, Director of Tata Textile Mills
technologies. I have seen the mills are running at the
interesting chapter of this mill mastery course for me
and CCI’s Mill Exchange Program.
expressed his gratitude by addressing “First of all, I
highest speeds with low ends down on the machines,
was about “short fiber” and how to use short fiber to
with very low cut levels on the winders. I have
our advantage. The second subject that I loved was
Coming to the technical management side of the
Joerg Bauersachs, Head of CCI’s Technical Services
travelled to many countries and visited many mills.
about “stickiness” in the cotton and how to check for
Tata Textile Mills, Hafiz Imran Aslam, the Vice
explained “we from CCI, are always there for our
Here I see that Pakistani products are excellent
it and manage it in our processing”.
president also had a few words to say about this
customers. We are supporting our representatives
quality yarn and have high profitability. I am really
training program, “It was very good experience and
impressed.”
Adeel Tata thinks that USCTP is a good initiative but
most importantly, for the Mill Mastery™ Course, all
it’s becoming a little confusing, as the brands are
the team members of Tata Pakistan belonging to
At the end, Mazhar Hussain Mirza, CCI’s Pakistan
also taking their own initiatives. He said that right
cotton buying, mills management and the technical
Representative, thanked to all the participants and
now, we have BCI, Inditex, GOTS, OEKO-TEX,
team sit together and having a common
CCI overseas trainers for their valuable contribution
Primark, CMI etc. He thinks its overall the same thing
understanding on all the parameters to produce
especially in these Covid-19 crucial days. He hoped,
and if everybody gets together and comes under one
different quality yarns like knitting, weaving and
after these Mill Mastery™ Courses, the Mills
From the king of the cotton world, COTTON USA
workshops were held at Tata Textile Mills Ltd
umbrella it will be easier for entire chain to be able to
denim. This is important specially in the days, where
management will have now better understanding
(Muzaffargarh) and Ellcot Spinning Mills (Raiwand).
SOLUTIONS® consultancy is famous for helping the
practices.
the profitability of a mill is very crucial for everyone.”
regarding cotton parameters which effect the yarn
The Mill Mastery courses, by CCI, were a wonderful
textile industry in over 50 countries turn into proper
quality. He also assured to continue these programs
experience which has given an opportunity to mills’
businesses by lending a helping hand through their
The future of Pakistan’s textile industry seems very
Ihsan-ur-Rehman, Technical Director of Ellcot
A few members from the technical management
and to add some more features in coming days.
expertise, modern technical solutions and
management teams to learn about the advantages of
bright, especially with the government policies being
Spinning Mills had a very positive feedback after a
department of Tata Mills also gave their insights and
using the top quality sustainable USA cotton and how
techniques. Moreover, they are back with a
couple of weeks after course with implementing the
reviews about the training program. Adnan Alam,
to utilize it in the best way, in Pakistan’s environment
one-of-a-kind initiative which is, one to several days
changes, “We have about 62,000 spindles capacity
Senior Vice President of Salfi Textile Mills explained,
training, Mill Mastery™ Course. Two of these
to get the quality yarn and fabric products.
Aralar site in Amezketa, Spain
44 and licensees in the respective markets. We have out of which 20,000 are allocated purely for US “It was very informative, and we have learned a lot on the right track. The textile and garment industries 45
Oeko-Tex®revised
regulations for
sustainability
As the new year begins, Oeko-Tex has updated its certificate's scope. Successful start-up of Papel Aralar’s PM
guidelines, test criteria, and limit values for their
certifications and services in line with consistent MADE IN GREEN and STeP by OEKO-TEX® certifi-
consumer protection and the sustainability of textiles cations are proving to be increasingly in demand -
and leather products. the sustainable label for textiles and leather articles 5 for sustainable wet wipes
MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® is once again the
Secretary-General Oeko-Tex®, Mr. Georg Dieners, strongest-growing OEKO-TEX® product. Compared
said, "OEKO-TEX® aims to provide customers and to the previous year, the number of valid labels rose Voith and the nonwoven fabric expert Truetzschler Aralar-Truetzschler-Voith team and the close
partners with the best possible services and certifica- by 267 percent from 1093 to 4010 (31/12/2020). Nonwovens have delivered a new system for collaboration we were able to carry out a smooth and
tions. For this reason, the test criteria for OEKO-TEX®'s objective for 2021 is the systemic specialty paper production to the Spanish paper timely start-up.”.
OEKO-TEX® standards are updated at least once a integration of the carbon and water footprint into the factory Papel Aralar. In December, the PM 5
year based on new scientific information or statutory MADE IN GREEN label. The intention behind product successfully started up and is now stably producing HydroFormer and AquaJet for high-performance
requirements. A unique project in 2021 will integrate labels is to guide consumers towards products with adult and baby wet wipes that are completely Wet-Laid Spunlacing
the carbon and water footprint into our MADE IN transparent information on their supply chain and plastic-free, flushable and biodegradable, a As a full-line supplier, Voith supplied the BlueLine
GREEN label." produced by technologies with low environmental characteristic that conventional wet wipes do not stock preparation, the main components of the
impacts. have. With the recent investment, Aralar now has two XcelLine paper machine and a comprehensive
At the start of the year, the OEKO-TEX® Association, WLS lines with a total production capacity of 45,000 automation and control package from one single
as usual, updates the applicable test criteria, limit Virtual Audits OEKO-TEX® has introduced virtual tons/year. source. The HydroFormer, which is one of the main
values, and requirements for its range of certifica- assessments of production sites due to travel and components of the new system, draws on Voith’s
extensive experience in the papermaking and pulp
tions and labels. All new regulations will finally come contact restrictions imposed by COVID-19. This “The successful start-up of PM 5 is an important step industries. With this technology, the suspension is
into force after a transition period on 1 April 2021. An applies to reviews for STANDARD 100 and LEATHER forward in our company’s sustainability strategy,” heavily diluted to produce nonwoven materials made
overview of the most significant changes and STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®, as well as virtual says Senén Amunarriz, CEO of Papel Aralar. “And it is completely of cellulose, a renewable resource.
innovations in the revised rules are: on-site visits for STeP and ECO PASSPORT certifica- Voith’s innovative papermaking solutions and Besides the HydroFormer, Voith has supplied the
tions. know-how that are contributing to this success. Our BlueLine stock preparation, a master reel, and the
Recycled materials in STANDARD 100 by decision to invest in this state-of-the-art new wet end process for the new system.
OEKO-TEX® has developed an approach to New substances under observation OEKO-TEX® is production line was driven by the forecast growth in
integrate recycled materials for greater sustainability also observing various substances in 2021 based on demand for biodegradable substrates for wet wipe Truetzschler Nonwovens completes the production
as part of this standard test. This uniform approach the latest scientific findings and conformity with production.” line with the well-proven AquaJet in an innovative
requires a minimum amount of recycled material in relevant specifications. These include diisocyanates, configuration for hydroentangling (spunlacing) and
an article, different test programs depending on the which can trigger allergic reactions through skin “We are happy and proud to partner with Papel Aralar an energy-efficient multi-drum dryer. The many years
origin of the material, and the definition of the contact and inhalation. The chemical compounds and to provide them, together with Truetzschler, with of expertise and experience of the Truetzschler
necessary background information. Therefore, they dibutyltin bis(acetylacetonate), 2-methylimidazole, our efficient and sustainable papermaking company form the basis of the web bonding and
are treated differently within the STANDARD 100 by and 1-vinyl imidazole will also be closely examined in technologies,” says Marcos Garcia de la Torre, drying components that have been adapted to the
OEKO-TEX® and receive a special mention in the the future. Managing Director Voith Paper Spain. “Thanks to the needs of the wet-laid process.
January/February 2021 January/February 2021

