Page 44 - January-February-2021
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developed a new campaign called “COTTON USA
           SOLUTIONS®” which comprises of five different
           offerings including the Mill Mastery™ Course. These
                                                                                                                                                                                   must move with the times especially given the
                                                                                                                                 and the course extends as per our scope. The Mill
           all are complementary for our customers as long as
                                                                                                                                 Mastery course will help us to improve recovery,
                                                                                                                                                                                   challenges of fast fashion, decreased garment
           they meet two criteria: (1) the mill should be a
                                                                                                                                                                                   prices, and thin margins throughout the value chain.
                                                                                                                                 strength and yarn quality. We have learned many new
           COTTON USA licensee, and (2) the mill should be a
                                                                                                                                 things with quality information. Micronaire, maturity
                                                                                                                                                                                   Pakistan is a great position to build on our strengths
           member of the new US Cotton Trust Protocol
                                                                                                                                 levels, neps and how to manage seed-coat
                                                                                                                                                                                   and benefit from the global issues such as the US
           program, the US cotton industry’s new sustainability
                                                                                                                                 fragments and were very useful sessions. CCI needs
                                                                                                                                                                                   taking a hard stand on China, Xinjiang cotton and
           program for US cotton.”
                                                                                                                                 to advertise this more so that everybody could get
                                                                                                                                                                                   their practices with the people of Xinjiang;  the US
                                                                                                                                 relevant benefit from it.”
                                                                                                                                                                                   and other European brands now want to move out of
           Upon asking about what roles the modules play in
                                                                                                                                                                                   China. As they moved out of China, hopefully,
           the Mill Program, Joerg said, “We having training
                                                                                                                                                                                   Pakistan can take a bigger share along with India,
           modules starting with cotton growing, harvesting,
 am very thankful to Mazhar Mirza and COTTON USA
                                                                                                                                                                                   Vietnam and Bangladesh.
           cotton buying and fiber quality then we go through
 team for a successful Mill Mastery program. It’s a
           the entire process starting from the blow room all the
 great initiative that CCI has started which will help our
                                                                                                                                                                                   While discussing Pakistan’s cotton and export
           way down to winding. We also have included a
                                                             upland cotton for last three years. With the help of
 team to learn and understand how to improve the
                                                                                                                                                                                   market, Adeel said, “As improvement is a continuous
                                                             CCI Mill Mastery™ Course, we have been able to
           module about industrial engineering, profitability,
 processes in the mill with the better usage of USA
                                                                                                                                                                                   process, that’s what we strive for here in Tata
           economics of spinning that all comes totally free of
                                                             optimize our process by proper allocation of cotton
 cotton. The Mill Mastery™ Course has helped us to
                                                                                                                                                                                   Pakistan, I hope we can keep on improving and
           charge. Depending on the needs of our customers,
                                                             for weaving and knitting yarns.”
 clear out a lot of issues that my team had regarding
                                                                                                                                                                                   expanding gradually. More we expand, will be a
           we are also going to customize a tailor-made course
 US cotton and hopefully they will now be able to
                                                                                                                                                                                   bigger market for US cotton as my Father and I am
                                                             He added, “Now, we are running two different types
           for our customers that can be in person or virtual.”
 make a better use of it to get quality yarn. The mill
                                                                                                                                                                                   the biggest champions of US cotton. Overall US
                                                             of blends. For knitting end use, we have narrowed
 audits again are good initiative by CCI which helped
                                                                                                                                                                                   cotton is the best cotton. Many customers are
                                                             the range of color parameters like Rd and +B, also
 us to improve our own benchmark. After having
                                                                                                                                                                                   already shifted to Pakistan and I think, it’s just a start.
                                                             micronaire value to avoid shade variability problem
 primarily discussion with our team, we have taken out
                                                                                                                                                                                   If we can give them the right services, with the right
                                                             and for maintaining fabric consistency. For knitting
 few points and hopefully we will improve our process.”
                                                                                                                                                                                   quality and right price, I don’t think they will be
                                                             yarns, we started to compromise on staple and GPT.
                                                                                                                                                                                   moving back. Everyone is getting up for major
                                                             While, for weaving end use we started using longer
 CCI’s global technical team is the foundation of this
                                                                                                                                                                                   expansions and I hope that Pakistan can grow in the
                                                                                                                                 Muhammad Sehban, Vice President of Island Textile
                                                             staple lengths with better GPT wile opening the range
 new program which is designed to help customers of
                                                                                                                                                                                   textile field.”
                                                                                                                                 Mills discussed how this program can strengthen our
                                                             of color and micronaire, as the requirement here is
 US cotton get the maximum performance from US
                                                                                                                                 cotton practices. “This is a very good initiative by the
                                                             the good running performance. By this we can
 cotton fibre.  The Mill Mastery™ Course presently
                                                                                                                                                                                   The hard work and the efforts of the Pakistan’s
                                                                                                                                 CCI of having a mill mastery course. We will give
                                                             reduce one step our twist multiplier by maintaining
 includes three modules designed to offer tailor-made
                                                                                                                                                                                   spinning industry left a mark on Joerg Bauersachs as
                                                                                                                                 some suggestions to them as well, if they add some
                                                             the same parameters of yarn strength. This has been
 customized solutions for US cotton customers. In the
                                                                                                                                                                                   he said, “The spinning industry in Pakistan is mature
                                                                                                                                 practical examples of this course that they have given
                                                             giving us very good results in increasing our
 future, CCI will offer 15 modules of the Mill Mastery™
                                                                                                                                                                                   as they started in the fifties and during all this time
                                                                                                                                 us of advantages of using the USA Cotton. This will
                                                             productivity.”
 Course. COTTON USA SOLUTIONS® also feature
                                                                                                                                                                                   the industry has developed strategies and
                                                                                                                                 further add very organized course. The most
 mill studies, technical seminars, 1:1 mill consults,
 Adeel Shahid Tata, Director of Tata Textile Mills
                                                                                                                                                                                   technologies. I have seen the mills are running at the
                                                                                                                                 interesting chapter of this mill mastery course for me
 and CCI’s Mill Exchange Program.
 expressed his gratitude by addressing “First of all, I
                                                                                                                                                                                   highest speeds with low ends down on the machines,
                                                                                                                                 was about “short fiber” and how to use short fiber to
                                                                                                                                                                                   with very low cut levels on the winders. I have
                                                                                                                                 our advantage. The second subject that I loved was
           Coming to the technical management side of the
 Joerg Bauersachs, Head of CCI’s Technical Services
                                                                                                                                                                                   travelled to many countries and visited many mills.
                                                                                                                                 about “stickiness” in the cotton and how to check for
           Tata Textile Mills, Hafiz Imran Aslam, the Vice
 explained “we from CCI, are always there for our
                                                                                                                                                                                   Here I see that Pakistani products are excellent
                                                                                                                                 it and manage it in our processing”.
           president also had a few words to say about this
 customers. We are supporting our representatives
                                                                                                                                                                                   quality yarn and have high profitability.  I am really
           training program, “It was very good experience and
                                                                                                                                                                                   impressed.”
                                                                                                                                 Adeel Tata thinks that USCTP is a good initiative but
           most importantly, for the Mill Mastery™ Course, all
                                                                                                                                 it’s becoming a little confusing, as the brands are
           the team members of Tata Pakistan belonging to
                                                                                                                                                                                   At the end, Mazhar Hussain Mirza, CCI’s Pakistan
                                                                                                                                 also taking their own initiatives. He said that right
           cotton buying, mills management and the technical
                                                                                                                                                                                   Representative, thanked to all the participants and
                                                                                                                                 now, we have BCI, Inditex, GOTS, OEKO-TEX,
           team sit together and having a common
                                                                                                                                                                                   CCI overseas trainers for their valuable contribution
                                                                                                                                 Primark, CMI etc. He thinks its overall the same thing
           understanding on all the parameters to produce
                                                                                                                                                                                   especially in these Covid-19 crucial days. He hoped,
                                                                                                                                 and if everybody gets together and comes under one
           different quality yarns like knitting, weaving and
                                                                                                                                                                                   after these Mill Mastery™ Courses, the Mills
 From the king of the cotton world, COTTON USA
 workshops were held at Tata Textile Mills Ltd
                                                                                                                                 umbrella it will be easier for entire chain to be able to
           denim. This is important specially in the days, where
                                                                                                                                                                                   management will have now better understanding
 (Muzaffargarh) and Ellcot Spinning Mills (Raiwand).
 SOLUTIONS® consultancy is famous for helping the
                                                                                                                                 practices.
           the profitability of a mill is very crucial for everyone.”
                                                                                                                                                                                   regarding cotton parameters which effect the yarn
 The Mill Mastery courses, by CCI, were a wonderful
 textile industry in over 50 countries turn into proper
                                                                                                                                                                                   quality. He also assured to continue these programs
 experience which has given an opportunity to mills’
 businesses by lending a helping hand through their
                                                                                                                                 The future of Pakistan’s textile industry seems very
           Ihsan-ur-Rehman, Technical Director of Ellcot
                                                             A few members from the technical management
                                                                                                                                                                                   and to add some more features in coming days.
 expertise, modern technical solutions and
 management teams to learn about the advantages of
                                                                                                                                 bright, especially with the government policies being
           Spinning Mills had a very positive feedback after a
                                                             department of Tata Mills also gave their insights and
 using the top quality sustainable USA cotton and how
 techniques. Moreover, they are back with a
           couple of weeks after course with implementing the
                                                             reviews about the training program. Adnan Alam,
 to utilize it in the best way, in Pakistan’s environment
 one-of-a-kind initiative which is, one to several days
           changes, “We have about 62,000 spindles capacity
                                                             Senior Vice President of Salfi Textile Mills explained,
 training, Mill Mastery™ Course. Two of these
 to get the quality yarn and fabric products.
                                                                                                                                     Aralar site in Amezketa, Spain
       44  and licensees in the respective markets. We have   out of which 20,000 are allocated purely for US                    “It was very informative, and we have learned a lot   on the right track. The textile and garment industries   45
                Oeko-Tex®revised
                         regulations for
                             sustainability
             As the new year begins, Oeko-Tex has updated its   certificate's scope.                                               Successful start-up of Papel Aralar’s PM
             guidelines, test criteria, and limit values for their
             certifications and services in line with consistent   MADE IN GREEN and STeP by OEKO-TEX® certifi-
             consumer protection and the sustainability of textiles   cations are proving to be increasingly in demand -
             and leather products.                             the sustainable label for textiles and leather articles                            5 for sustainable wet wipes
                                                               MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® is once again the
             Secretary-General Oeko-Tex®, Mr. Georg Dieners,   strongest-growing OEKO-TEX® product. Compared
             said, "OEKO-TEX® aims to provide customers and    to the previous year, the number of valid labels rose              Voith and the nonwoven fabric expert Truetzschler   Aralar-Truetzschler-Voith team and the close
             partners with the best possible services and certifica-  by 267 percent from 1093 to 4010 (31/12/2020).              Nonwovens have delivered a new system for         collaboration we were able to carry out a smooth and
             tions. For this reason, the test criteria for     OEKO-TEX®'s objective for 2021 is the systemic                     specialty paper production to the Spanish paper   timely start-up.”.
             OEKO-TEX® standards are updated at least once a   integration of the carbon and water footprint into the             factory Papel Aralar. In December, the PM 5
             year based on new scientific information or statutory   MADE IN GREEN label. The intention behind product            successfully started up and is now stably producing   HydroFormer and AquaJet for high-performance
             requirements. A unique project in 2021 will integrate   labels is to guide consumers towards products with           adult and baby wet wipes that are completely      Wet-Laid Spunlacing
             the carbon and water footprint into our MADE IN   transparent information on their supply chain and                  plastic-free, flushable and biodegradable, a      As a full-line supplier, Voith supplied the BlueLine
             GREEN label."                                     produced by technologies with low environmental                    characteristic that conventional wet wipes do not   stock preparation, the main components of the
                                                               impacts.                                                           have. With the recent investment, Aralar now has two   XcelLine paper machine and a comprehensive
             At the start of the year, the OEKO-TEX® Association,                                                                 WLS lines with a total production capacity of 45,000   automation and control package from one single
             as usual, updates the applicable test criteria, limit   Virtual Audits OEKO-TEX® has introduced virtual              tons/year.                                        source. The HydroFormer, which is one of the main
             values, and requirements for its range of certifica-  assessments of production sites due to travel and                                                                components of the new system, draws on Voith’s
                                                                                                                                                                                    extensive experience in the papermaking and pulp
             tions and labels. All new regulations will finally come   contact restrictions imposed by COVID-19. This             “The successful start-up of PM 5 is an important step   industries. With this technology, the suspension is
             into force after a transition period on 1 April 2021. An   applies to reviews for STANDARD 100 and LEATHER           forward in our company’s sustainability strategy,”   heavily diluted to produce nonwoven materials made
             overview of the most significant changes and      STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®, as well as virtual                          says Senén Amunarriz, CEO of Papel Aralar. “And it is   completely of cellulose, a renewable resource.
             innovations in the revised rules are:             on-site visits for STeP and ECO PASSPORT certifica-                Voith’s innovative papermaking solutions and      Besides the HydroFormer, Voith has supplied the
                                                               tions.                                                             know-how that are contributing to this success. Our   BlueLine stock preparation, a master reel, and the
             Recycled materials in STANDARD 100 by                                                                                decision to invest in this state-of-the-art new   wet end process for the new system.
             OEKO-TEX® has developed an approach to            New substances under observation OEKO-TEX® is                      production line was driven by the forecast growth in
             integrate recycled materials for greater sustainability   also observing various substances in 2021 based on         demand for biodegradable substrates for wet wipe   Truetzschler Nonwovens completes the production
             as part of this standard test. This uniform approach   the latest scientific findings and conformity with            production.”                                      line with the well-proven AquaJet in an innovative
             requires a minimum amount of recycled material in   relevant specifications. These include diisocyanates,                                                              configuration for hydroentangling (spunlacing) and
             an article, different test programs depending on the   which can trigger allergic reactions through skin             “We are happy and proud to partner with Papel Aralar   an energy-efficient multi-drum dryer. The many years
             origin of the material, and the definition of the   contact and inhalation. The chemical compounds                   and to provide them, together with Truetzschler, with   of expertise and experience of the Truetzschler
             necessary background information. Therefore, they   dibutyltin bis(acetylacetonate), 2-methylimidazole,              our efficient and sustainable papermaking         company form the basis of the web bonding and
             are treated differently within the STANDARD 100 by   and 1-vinyl imidazole will also be closely examined in          technologies,” says Marcos Garcia de la Torre,    drying components that have been adapted to the
             OEKO-TEX® and receive a special mention in the    the future.                                                        Managing Director Voith Paper Spain. “Thanks to the   needs of the wet-laid process.
                January/February 2021                                                                                                                                                                     January/February 2021
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