Page 60 - TEXtalks July-August 2021
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                     Enriching lives through innovation


                 Recycled Polyester goes mainstream: rPET



                 processing challenges no longer a barrier




















            The 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge asks brands   volume of fibers produced globally. But only about                 increase the use of rPET in the apparel industry from   Furthermore, processing rPET fibers is challenging.
            to dramatically and rapidly increase their use of rPET   14% of this comes from recycled inputs, according to          14% today to 45% by 2025.                        The rPET chips generated by mechanical recycling
            to help reduce greenhouse gas emissions. While    the Textile Exchange 2020 Preferred Fiber & Materials                                                                 vary in color. This makes it very difficult for dye
            achieving color consistency with rPET fibers remains   Market Report. This is disappointing since rPET                 More than 85 brands and suppliers have already   houses to achieve a consistent color within a batch
            tough, economical and eco-friendly dyeing solutions   production results in about 70% fewer GHG emissions              signed up to the Challenge, including Banana     of rPET, especially for pale shades. And most dye
            are now available.                                than virgin polyester, Textile Exchange says.                        Republic, H&M, Itochu, J.Crew, Lululemon Athletica,   solutions require extensive re-dyeing for
                                                                                                                                   Nike and VF Corp. They will benchmark their rPET   batch-to-batch consistency. Producing full white is
            As an energy-intensive industry, fashion is       While many brands use some rPET in their                             usage, set reduction targets and make positive   yet more difficult; even with intensive pre-treatment, it
            responsible for a sizeable portion of global      collections, few disclose their overall material mix. In             changes. Even so, eliminating virgin polyester will not   is not always possible. What’s worse, dyeing and
            greenhouse gas emissions: 4% in 2018, according to   contrast, a handful of the world’s top brands have                be easy.                                         whitening both require high water, energy and
            McKinsey, with upstream activities like raw-material   stepped up over the past few years with ambitious                                                                chemical use.
            production and processing contributing more than   targets to eliminate virgin polyester:                              Challenges remain
            70% of that total.                                                                                                     rPET is currently produced using mainly          Eco-friendly solutions
                                                              • Adidas is on track to entirely rely on rPET from                   post-consumer plastic bottles as feedstock. These   We help brands overcome these challenges and
            Bringing more sustainable raw materials into the   2024, reaching 60% sustainable materials this year                  bottles are washed and mechanically shredded into   meet their rPET commitments in line with the
            supply chain is thus a very effective way for the   after announcing its target back in 2018;                          polyester chip for reuse.                        expectations of customers and other stakeholders.
            sector to dramatically reduce its impact on climate   • Inditex brands, including Zara, have pledged to                                                                 Our rPET processing solutions include pre-treatment
            change. Unfortunately, emissions reduction targets   switch to 100% recycled polyester by 2025; and                    rPET recycling keeps waste plastic out of landfill and   chemicals, fluorescent whitening agents,
            that align the industry with the Paris Accord climate   • Tommy Hilfiger will phase out the use of virgin              the ocean. But with increasing demand for rPET by   state-of-the-art coloration systems and finishing
            goals remain out of reach today.                  oil-based polyester by 2025.                                         the packaging industry, there could be limited   solutions for high-performance protection and
                                                                                                                                   supplies of rPET for fashion in the future. Closed-loop
            The case for rPET                                 More brands pledge support                                           rPET, where garments made from recycled polyester   comfort garments. These are eco-friendly and can be
            Among the options for sustainable materials,      Many more brands are now joining these rPET                          are turned back into rPET fibers, could be the answer.   easily incorporated into existing processes to deliver
            recycled polyester (rPET) is a standout.          pioneers thanks to the 2025 Recycled Polyester                       However, more research is needed to ensure that the   right-first-time quality, helping to maintain mill
                                                              Challenge, which launched in February this year.                     quality of the polyester material does not degrade   productivity and competitiveness. By Martin Weber.
            Polyester is the most widely used fiber in the apparel   Created by Textile Exchange and the United Nations’           during recycling and that the process is both    Global Marketing Manager – Washfast. Huntsman
            industry, accounting for around 52% of the total   Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, it aims to             cost-effective and scalable.                     Textile Effects.


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