Page 61 - TEXtalks July-August 2021

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Enriching lives through innovation

Recycled Polyester goes mainstream: rPET

processing challenges no longer a barrier

The 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge asks brands volume of fibers produced globally. But only about increase the use of rPET in the apparel industry from Furthermore, processing rPET fibers is challenging.
to dramatically and rapidly increase their use of rPET 14% of this comes from recycled inputs, according to 14% today to 45% by 2025. The rPET chips generated by mechanical recycling
to help reduce greenhouse gas emissions. While the Textile Exchange 2020 Preferred Fiber & Materials vary in color. This makes it very difficult for dye
achieving color consistency with rPET fibers remains Market Report. This is disappointing since rPET More than 85 brands and suppliers have already houses to achieve a consistent color within a batch
tough, economical and eco-friendly dyeing solutions production results in about 70% fewer GHG emissions signed up to the Challenge, including Banana of rPET, especially for pale shades. And most dye
are now available. than virgin polyester, Textile Exchange says. Republic, H&M, Itochu, J.Crew, Lululemon Athletica, solutions require extensive re-dyeing for
Nike and VF Corp. They will benchmark their rPET batch-to-batch consistency. Producing full white is
As an energy-intensive industry, fashion is While many brands use some rPET in their usage, set reduction targets and make positive yet more difficult; even with intensive pre-treatment, it
responsible for a sizeable portion of global collections, few disclose their overall material mix. In changes. Even so, eliminating virgin polyester will not is not always possible. What’s worse, dyeing and
greenhouse gas emissions: 4% in 2018, according to contrast, a handful of the world’s top brands have be easy. whitening both require high water, energy and
McKinsey, with upstream activities like raw-material stepped up over the past few years with ambitious chemical use.
production and processing contributing more than targets to eliminate virgin polyester: Challenges remain
70% of that total. rPET is currently produced using mainly Eco-friendly solutions
• Adidas is on track to entirely rely on rPET from post-consumer plastic bottles as feedstock. These We help brands overcome these challenges and
Bringing more sustainable raw materials into the 2024, reaching 60% sustainable materials this year bottles are washed and mechanically shredded into meet their rPET commitments in line with the
supply chain is thus a very effective way for the after announcing its target back in 2018; polyester chip for reuse. expectations of customers and other stakeholders.
sector to dramatically reduce its impact on climate • Inditex brands, including Zara, have pledged to Our rPET processing solutions include pre-treatment
change. Unfortunately, emissions reduction targets switch to 100% recycled polyester by 2025; and rPET recycling keeps waste plastic out of landfill and chemicals, fluorescent whitening agents,
that align the industry with the Paris Accord climate • Tommy Hilfiger will phase out the use of virgin the ocean. But with increasing demand for rPET by state-of-the-art coloration systems and finishing
goals remain out of reach today. oil-based polyester by 2025. the packaging industry, there could be limited solutions for high-performance protection and
supplies of rPET for fashion in the future. Closed-loop
The case for rPET More brands pledge support rPET, where garments made from recycled polyester comfort garments. These are eco-friendly and can be
Among the options for sustainable materials, Many more brands are now joining these rPET are turned back into rPET fibers, could be the answer. easily incorporated into existing processes to deliver
recycled polyester (rPET) is a standout. pioneers thanks to the 2025 Recycled Polyester However, more research is needed to ensure that the right-first-time quality, helping to maintain mill
Challenge, which launched in February this year. quality of the polyester material does not degrade productivity and competitiveness. By Martin Weber.
Polyester is the most widely used fiber in the apparel Created by Textile Exchange and the United Nations’ during recycling and that the process is both Global Marketing Manager – Washfast. Huntsman
industry, accounting for around 52% of the total Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, it aims to cost-effective and scalable. Textile Effects.

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