Page 30 - TEXtalks International July/August 2022
P. 30

30         New patterning dimensions


       Cover Story  with the HKS digital generation








                 HKS 3-M ON demonstrates maximum flexibility in warp-knitted fabric design















            New patterning dimensions with HKS 3-M ON

            With the HKS 3-M ON, KARL MAYER has initiated the   for this. With regard to the design, KARL MAYER's
            changeover of high-performance tricot machines to   textile specialists opted for variants with
            the digital generation. The subsequent patterning   sophisticated crinkle looks. Articles with the
            trials at the premises of the innovative world market   crepe-like surfaces had already been successfully
            leader confirmed the exceptional performance of the   produced on an HKS 4-M EL in E 28. /1+2/ Now an
            newcomer. The HKS 3-M ON works with lapping data   HKS 3-M ON in E 32 was used, with the same
            that can be purchased online via KARL MAYER's    material. In GB 1 and GB 2, a wrapping yarn made of
            WEBSHOP SPARE PARTS, and loaded immediately      polyamide with elastane in the core was processed.
            thanks to the machine's networking. This means that   When relaxed, the two-component material gives rise
            articles can be changed in a matter of seconds   to distinct plastic surface structures. GB 3 produced
            without mechanical intervention. The new HKS does   the fabric ground and alternated between polyamide
            not need any pattern discs, but achieves the high   and polyester feed. When polyester was used,
            working speeds typical of mechanical guide bar   targeted cross-dyeing resulted in sophisticated
            drives. The innovative machine thus contributes to   two-tone coloration of the three-dimensional goods.
            improving production performance.                The relief effects are strongly pronounced due to the
                                                             use of two ground guide bars.
            Article changeover made easy
            In the first patterning projects, KARL MAYER's textile   In addition to the look, the performance of the items
            product developers produced conventional basic   is right with the concise crinkle design. In clothing,
            articles, such as marquisette and flag fabric. They   they offer freedom of movement and a good fit due
            used the standard repeat length of up to 36 stitch   to their high elasticity. The three-dimensional
            courses - an increase of 12 stitch courses compared   structure also creates distances to the skin, which
            with the HKS 3-M model with pattern disc drive. All   ensures a high climatic wearing comfort.
            patterns could be produced with maximum efficiency
            and quality and changed quickly without any technical   To be continued
            effort. There was no need for any manual intervention.   Encouraged by the results of their processing trials,
            Simply load the required lappings for an article via   KARL MAYER's textile product developers are
            SwapKnit 36 or SwapKnit 36 Flat from the KM.ON   implementing further pattern ideas. The focus here is
            cloud and production could start, with optimized   on the fabric ground. "We want to make the ground
            machine data for maximum operating speeds.       structure more varied, for example, combining open
                                                             and dense areas to achieve openwork looks," says
            Subsequent trials produced patterns with repeats of   Jürgen Wohlrab, product developer for textile
            more than 36 stitch courses. The web-based       technology at KARL MAYER. „Kettenwirk-Praxis“ will
            software k.innovation CORE from KM.ON was used   continue to report.

                July/August 2022
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