Page 36 - TEXtalks May-June 2021
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                   Creating a Smarter Cotton Future





                      U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is advancing Sustainably Grown Cotton














             In a period of ever greater supply chain scrutiny and   Smarter Cotton Future,” with Edward Hertzman, that
             a growing demand for transparency, The U.S. Cotton   the Protocol’s main objective is to enroll U.S. cotton
             Trust Protocol® sets a new standard for more     farmers in a program that advances the issue of
             sustainably grown cotton. Aligned with the U.N.   responsibly grown cotton production and drives
             Sustainable Development Goals, the Trust Protocol   continuous improvement in key metrics.
             brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and
             measurement to more sustainable cotton production   The participating farmers then provide field-level
             and drives continuous improvement in six key     analysis data such as fertilizer usage, field cultivation
             sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water   and other “sophisticated information that allows us to
             management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions,   collect, aggregate and provide to the textile supply
             and energy efficiency.                           chain,” Adams said.                                                                      Dr. Gary Adams
                                                                                                                                                       President
             The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S.   Having this data gives brands and retailers the critical                                 U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
             cotton’s sustainability progress through sophisticated   assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of
             data collection and independent third-party      their supply chain is more sustainably grown with
             verification. Choosing the Trust Protocol cotton will   lower environmental and social risk.                           opportunities to seek to improve, to be even more   and 30 brands and retailers, he noted. This includes
             provide brands and retailers the critical assurances                                                                   efficient with their resources.”                 Gap Inc. and its Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic
             they need that the cotton fiber element of their supply   Hertzman, noting that sustainability has become an                                                            and Athleta chains, as well as U.K. retailers Next plc
             chain is more sustainably grown with lower       “evolving process of continuous improvement,” not                     In addition, farmers are asked what areas they would   and Byford. The Trust Protocol also has welcomed
             environmental and social risk.                   reliant on a single program of entity, asked Adams                    like to improve upon or get involved in, and the Protocol   the first U.S. mills, the first members in Latin America,
                                                              how the program can ensure that farmers’ practices                    can then look to provide resources to make changes in   and Advance Denim, one of China’s top three denim
             Launched in the summer of 2020, the Trust Protocol   continue to evolve.                                               areas such as cover crops or irrigation.         manufacturers.
             is voluntary for U.S. cotton producers and allows us
             to report on six key sustainability metrics from the   One way the program does that, Adams said, is that              Turning to the rampant forced labor allegations rocking   “As we look forward in 2021, we’d like to be able to
             farm-level. Firmly rooted in their established   as farmers document what they are doing to grow                       China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, Adams   double the level of participation by cotton produc-
             principles of continuous improvement, this initiative   cotton, it tells that how they rate on key environmental       said the program does query farmers about labor   ers,” Adams said. “An objective for us going forward
             will help drive all U.S. cotton production towards their   measures such as land-use efficiency, energy and            practices, such as wages and safety procedures.  is to be able to take the aggregate information we
             2025 sustainability targets and beyond.          water use, and greenhouse gas emissions                                                                                have accumulated and present it to brands and
                                                              compared, for instance, to a state or national                        “That’s part of the message we give to brands and   retailers in a way that is useful to them.”
             Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust   average. The Trust Protocol gives evidence to the                 retailers, that the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol provides
             Protocol, said the organization’s role in fashion’s   sustainability credentials that are proven via Field to          not only the environmental data, but also mitigates   The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a
             environmental efforts is to enable verifiable goals for   Market, measured via the Field Calculator and                some of the social and labor risk,” he said.     multistakeholder board composed of representatives
             U.S. cotton production and a level of data from   verified with Control Union Certifications.                                                                           from brands and retailers, civil society and independ-
             participating producers, and provide that information                                                                  The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol has grown to include   ent sustainability experts, as well as the cotton-grow-
             to the textile supply chain.                     “So, they get some feedback on knowing where they                     more than 300 cotton producers that have completed   ing industry, including growers, ginners, merchants,
                                                              stand and they can see how their peers are doing,”                    the requirements for participation, as well as more   wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and
             Adams said during his conversation on “Creating a   he said. “Hopefully, that gives them some                          than 200 mills and manufacturers and between 25   cottonseed handlers.


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