Page 61 - November/December-2019
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 Articles  Can the past determine                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        even by single shirt or pants. This is important, as you   laser up to 10 years of production time. So, it’s much



 our future in textiles for







                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           problem the burn bubbles due to cutting accuracy and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         will look strange. Also, the organizational complexity of
 Mike Horsten  the garment industry?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     don’t want my front side on your back side, trust me it   more accurate cutting and its fast. There is still one
 ZEMT Consultancy                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        this and making sure that the right pieces arrive at the   fumes. You would need an incorporated fume extraction
 Textile Leadership                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      right sewing station is always a stressful job and   and fume dispersal technology that cleans the cutting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         mistakes happen here also.                        area of fumes.  So it’s getting complicated right, no
 The solutions are there, the better workflow can be integrated in the                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     there is a solution at hand.
 current working conditions and the margins will increase.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Using barcodes could solve some of these issues. They   The L Series Laser cutters just introduced to the market
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         are sometimes used but have we come up with the
 It’s funny to see how things change or better don’t   digital printers to do the same. The reason for the                                                                                                                                                                                               right solution to keep track of all. Partly yes, but the use   late this year from Summa NV is one of the first devices
 change in our textile industry. As I have been working in   change to digital was the benefit of smaller runs and                                                                                                                                                                                       is minimal in the textile industry and it’s only good if all   on the market that fit this description. Summa also
 it for more than 20 years in the textile printing industry, I   better quality. We also could save on the screen and                                                                                                                                                                                    works correctly and they are not cut off in the process.  included a conveyor belt in the machine that transports
 found that change is the most difficult and least   plate cost. So, we changed because of financial benefit                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               the fabrics totally relaxed, making sure the fabric is not
 accepted by the manufacturers and producers.   not the technology. But the finishing of the garments is                                                                                                                                                                                                 Funny, the solutions are there, the better workflow can   stretched or pulled, so there are no sizing issues nor
 still very much the same and again has not changed at                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   be integrated in the current working conditions and the   cutting errors. The very good automatic de-roller that is
 As we started the digital revolution over 20 years ago,   all.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          margins will increase. Software and control systems   included in the system, also eliminates the telescoping
 transforming the analog textile print to digital printing, I                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            could be a solution, but the essential change is not   issues that can happen at the calander station. The L
 noticed how traditions and the common ways are hard   We take the polyester sportswear fabrics, lay them up                                                                                                                                                                                             software, a new developed MIS system or control   Series de-roller automatically arranges and feeds the
 to break. The way we produce garments has not   on stacks for cutting them to pieces by hand with                                                                                                                                                                                                       stations.                                         textile substrate perfectly for fast and excellent cutting.
 changed and the textile producing world seems not to   dangerous up and down cutting devices. These pieces
 care how to increase the margin structures through   after cutting are bundled in hundreds of items, that are                                                                                                                                                                                           The answer, cutting garments with a belt driven   In the realization that operator errors can still occur,
 technology but only via cost cutting. There is no need to   extremely hard to keep track of in any factory. We also                                                                                                                                                                                     automatic laser cutting device that cuts from the roll and   such as loading the wrong cutting file, would mean that
 change or innovate, according to many, just lower the   overproduce at least 10% for the just in case situation.                                                                                                                                                                                        only one operator needs to do the picking.        the cutting shapes are not lined up with the fabric
 wages and get cheaper raw materials. We have been   As we really don’t know how many we might exactly                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     images. Even if the cut file is correct there is still a lot of
 doing it this way for years and we are happy with this   need due to errors and failures. Then we have the issue                                                                                                                                                                                        Laser cutters have a great benefit if used correctly.   lost time in reading all the markers that are needed to
 way. These are many of the comments and responses I   of sizes, most volume garments are made in                                                                                                                                                                                                        There are some things you need to know, most glass   find the correct shapes and items on the textile print.
 get from customers and vendors in the industry. Why   XS,S,M,L,XL,XXL, but the specials like cycling garments                                                                                                                                                                                           tube lasers from China will not give you the quality nor
 change if it works, right? Well you are wrong!  are made to fit one person. Let’s also not forget the                                                                                                                                                                                                   the speed needed for the production of sportswear   Understanding this issue Summa came up with a fully
 amount of labor involved in this process. Many compa-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   garments. The issue is mostly the cheaper CO2 lasers   automatic cutting system with a Vision camera. The
 Looking back into our own technology history, I see a lot   nies don’t even cut these pieces themselves but hire                                                                                                                                                                                        burn the polyester fabric because the cutting fumes   camera detects the shapes that need to be cut and
 of similarity. Like in the early days of the mobile phone,   external companies to do this labor work for them. The                                                                                                                                                                                     leave too slowly from the area where the cutting takes   cuts these on the fly via an intuitive AI system and
 most people thought “I don't need this, I have a phone   result hidden cost and less control on the production                                                                                                                                                                                          place. The result is small polyester bubbles that can   because of this, the laser can even keep on cutting
 at home”, then came the internet and people said, “I   side.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            irritate the skin are left behind.  This is a no go in the   while transporting the fabric on the fly. No loss of time
 have a Fax, why do I need this Email and this new web                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   textile garment industry.                         and accurate to the mm.
 thing”, when the smartphone arrived people said, “Its a   Then we still need to colorize these fabrics, so we place
 crazy gadget that nobody would use”. The same goes   printed paper on the calander table and have one or                                                                                                                                                                                                So up to now lasers have not been used a lot in the   Looks like we are starting to see some margins coming
 for the textile workflow we have doing it like this for   two people place the white fabrics cut pieces on the                                                                                                                                                                                          garment industry due to these reasons. it’s a different   back in the business.
 hundreds of years why change now.  correct location on the paper. Mistakes are made by                                                                                                                                                                                                                  process, you need now to print sublimation inks on
 misplacement, wrong textile on the wrong space,                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         paper and transfer directly on to the uncut fabric   There is a solution for the textile garment industry to
 In the digital print industry, we have seen that printers   forgotten items and the cost of labor is again underesti-                                                                                                                                                                                   (roll-to-roll). Later you can insert the roll into the laser   produce more for less, but would we use it? I believe
 have not changed much in the last 20 years. Yes, they   mated. I’m not even talking about the optimal place-                                                                                                                                                                                            cutting device to cut the shapes needed.          yes, because laser cutting is an essential part of an
 became faster, better print quality and more colors are   ment of the printed items on the paper, lots of paper                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           automated workflow.
 currently available, but the principle is still the same. We   waste here also. Hidden cost is again the key word.                                                                                                                                                                                      There are a couple of things needed to make this
 print sublimation inks on paper and transfer to the                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     happen well:                                      We just need to understand that this technology will
 polyester substrate via a calander. First the printing was   After this process the pieces fall behind the calandar                                                                                                                                                                                     A metal tube laser is essential to get good results. A   bring more for less, just like our mobile phone that we
 done via screen print, then offset and now we use   and yet another person needs to sort them by type or                                                                                                                                                                                                metal laser tube is long lasting, more precise and stable   did not need.



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