Page 40 - TEXtalks. November-December 2022

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Trützschler and

Valérius 360 partner

with power to make the Yarn cones from recycled fibers

green dream a reality Process steps 1 Passage(Test 1) vs. Direct Spinning (Test 2)

potential to drive measurable progress toward a
circular and sustainable textile industry.

Valérius 360 was founded in Portugal in 2017 The team from Valérius 360 wanted to find ways of
improving the processes for yarns made from 50 %
recycled and 50 % virgin cotton (Ne30). In particular,
it was seeking ways to reduce thick and thin spots,
which disturb the appearance of the textile surface.
At the Trützschler Technical Center in
Mönchengladbach, special trials were conducted
that showed that using a direct spinning process for
this application delivers much better results than a
process with a draw frame passage for rotor yarns.

In direct spinning, the sliver from the card is directly
drawn in the draw frame which is integrated in the Direct Spinningvs. 1 Passage
can stock (see figure 1, test 2). This involves one less
process step than using an auto leveller draw frame the process at the Valérius 360 production site. This
(see figure 1, test 2), while also saving space and helped to bring yarns made from recycled raw
giving staff more time for other operations. materials up to the required level of the 50%
Usterstatistics. This is the reference level for yarns
Energy efficiency and cost savings made from virgin raw materials. Accordingly, 50 % of
Direct spinning showed a clear capacity to reduce all yarn producers with raw cotton for rotor yarns and
the number of faults in the yarn. As a result, the yarn comparable yarn counts produce a poorer quality.
breaks were 30 % lower and the Total IPI 38 % lower
(see figure 2). The direct spinning process also has a “We believe that right now the fashion industry is in a
positive effect on energy consumption: Compared to position to actively play a pioneering role in restoring
the process with a draw frame passage, for a the environment and thus restoring humanity, and we
medium plant size, a savings potential of 5 % is want to make our contribution to that,” said Patrícia
achieved with direct spinning. At an energy price of Ferreira, CEO of Valérius Hub. “We are very grateful
0.2 €/kW, the savings amount to over for the great support that Trützschler has given and
5,000 € per year. continues to give us at all levels – from machine
Valérius 360 wanted to make a sustainable, circular dream a reality. Working together with Trützschler, a configuration through to product development,
approach possible in the fashion industry. But it pioneering collaborative project has now achieved On-site support from Trützschler Customer Service assembly and customer service”, adds Miklós Pál
needed a partner with the power to make this green high-quality recycled yarn – opening up massive Together, they analyzed and significantly improved Nagy, Manager at Valérius 360.

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