Page 62 - TEXtalks October/November 2021

62

SSM

Advantageous

Air-Covering

Process

$LU FRYHULQJ PDFKLQH ;(12 $& 7:,1 IRU SURGXFLQJ FRUH \DUQV ZLWK D GXDO RU WULSOH FRUH
SSM Textile Machinery, Wädenswil corespun yarns with a dual or triple core. In the first
(Switzerland) is a subsidiary of the Rieter method, the elastane yarn and textured filament yarn
Group based in Winterthur (Switzerland). In are spun directly on a Rieter ring spinning machine
the combined 300-year-old tradition of the
with the spinnable fibers that act as sheathing. In the
Swiss Review which merged in 1989 to become SSM, the filament yarn are doubled, air-covered and wound up
Schärer, Schweiter and Mettler companies,
second method, the elastane yarn and textured
commitment to textile machinery and
together on a XENO-AC TWIN machine (Fig. 1)
facilities for yarn processing has always
before being processed on the ring spinning
been exceptional.
machine. In a second step, cotton is spun over the
dual- or triple-core yarn located on the “cheese
In the past, items of clothing such as jeans were
produced purely from cotton. Some time ago now,
machine. Both methods require specialized
elastic woven fabrics became established in the packages”, for example using a Rieter ring spinning
superstructural parts to be fitted on existing ring
clothing industry thanks to their positive spinning machines.
characteristics. To produce these elastic yarns,
so-called corespun yarns with a dual core that are For the direct method in which the dual- or triple-core
spun on a ring spinning machine are used for weft yarn is not pre-wound, these superstructural parts are
threads and sometimes also warp threads. Due to very tall. In order to reload the ring spinning machine,
the increased demand for elastic yarns, traditional it must be switched off. This causes a productivity
ring spinning mills are upgrading their machines to loss of around 13% in comparison to the indirect
compete in this market. method. Furthermore, the operating personnel have
to climb onto the ring spinning machine in order to
Corespun yarns that are used to produce woven place the bobbins with the textured filament.
stretch fabrics consist of an elastic core with a
second spinnable fiber wrapped around its entire Excellent entry opportunity for traditional ring
length. The core can only be made from elastane. Or spinners
alternatively, it is made from an elastane yarn and a Corespun yarns with a dual or triple core where the
textured filament yarn. This is known as a “dual-core filament has already been doubled and air-covered
yarn”. Today, there is even a trend for making the on an air covering machine are therefore of a higher
core from two elastane yarns with different drafts and quality than corespun yarns produced directly on a
yarn counts together with a textured filament yarn. ring spinning machine.
These “triple-core yarns” further improve the
characteristics of these woven stretch fabrics in The method with the XENO-AC TWIN offers
terms of their stretch and shape-retaining traditional ring spinners an excellent opportunity to
characteristics. enter the elastic corespun yarn market and achieve
success. This method is also very user-friendly and
Two production possibilities safe. No compromises on yarn quality have to be
There are essentially two methods of producing made.

October/November 2021