The European Union is certain that, fast fashion is finally running out of steam. But many think that it could be wishful thinking. Industry leaders Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, and ASOS have indeed seen a decline in profits, but Zara and H&M have posted huge gains.
Then Shein despite being accused of copyright infringements, continues to attract thousands of customers, all champing at the bit for cheap, trendy clothing. The China-based giant can add a staggering 6,000 new pieces to its website daily suggests that the concept of fast fashion is going nowhere fast.
Last month, the EU adopted recommendations for the body’s strategy, including policies to make clothes tougher, repairable, and recyclable. They also backed regulations that suggest production must respect human, social, and label rights, animal welfare, and the environment throughout the entire supply chain.
“Consumers alone cannot reform the global textile sector through their purchasing habits. If we allow the market to self-regulate, we leave the door open for a fast fashion model that exploits people and the planet’s resources”, explains MEP Delara Burkhardt, adding, “The EU must legally oblige manufacturers and large fashion companies to operate more sustainably”.
While the idea is transformative in principle, there are concerns from all sides over whether the regulation would be able to help countries outside of Europe. Places including the Atacama Desert in Chile and the African nations of Ghana and Kenya are currently bearing the brunt of much of the Clothing donated to charity shops from countries including the UK, US, and China are sold on to exporters and importers who continue the chain by selling them on to vendors in markets like Kantamanto in Accra. Kantamanto is host to thousands of stalls, all offering clothing from low-end retailers like H&M, Primark, and New Look. Many of the garments still have charity shop labels attached.
The EU is hoping to move away from a linear model to a circular one, a model in which every garment can be reused, recycled, or, at the very least, made to be biodegradable and compostable. That’s certainly a sensible aim at a time when many of us realize how crucial it is to tackle fast fashion’s negative impact on the planet.
Amid an economic downturn and rising inflation, it’s hardly surprising that a great deal of people with stretched budgets are finding it hard to turn away from brands offering trendy and, crucially, very cheap clothing.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimates that 30 percent of new clothes made every year are never worn and it seems that it’s not just durability – or lack of – that’s the problem.
Some say the EU’s focus on resale and repair doesn’t appear to make financial sense or will go far enough in changing attitudes among consumers. Several fast fashion brands are, to their credit, already making inroads into making their clothes last longer.
While the EPR proposals are still in the working stages, with no details made public as yet. But, unless brands are hit with a hefty fee, it’s fairly unlikely they’ll change the way they approach production or their business models.
One particular criticism levied against the EU’s plans is the lack of introduction of living wage legislation. If put in place, it would mean retailers could no longer sell clothing at rock bottom clothing as they wouldn’t be able to rely on cheap labor.
It is wishful thinking that fast fashion is running out of steam in the EU
