According to a new report by the Changing Markets Foundation, Fashion Revolution, the Clean Clothes Campaign, Ethical Consumer, and WeMove EU, only 15 percent of the world’s leading brands have commitments to sourcing more sustainable viscose.
The organizations examined 100 of the world’s leading apparel brands. It divided the companies into four groups based on their responses to a questionnaire about their responsible viscose production plans and progress on transparency: Frontrunners, Could Do Better, Trailing Behind, and the Red Zone. The companies were assessed using the
following criteria:
– Viscose policy
– Transparency
– Engagement
As a biodegradable fiber made from trees and plants (bamboo), viscose has the potential to be a sustainable alternative to oil-derived synthetics and water-hungry cotton. However, risks are associated with deforestation for the raw material’s souring; viscose manufacturing uses several toxic chemicals to transform plant cellulose into viscose fibers.
The 28 worst-performing brands assigned to the Red Zone category, including Aeropostale, Ann Taylor, Armani, Carter’s, The Children’s Place, Forever 21, Hanesbrands, Macy’s, Michael Kors, Nike, Prada, and Walmart, earned failing grades for their lack of engagement and supply-chain visibility.
The report indicated a “clear divide” between American and European brands. More than two-thirds of the Red Zone brands (64 percent) are U.S.-based. And some of them, such as Aeropostale, Forever 21, and Michael Kors, have repeatedly landed on the bottommost rung, demonstrating they are “completely out of step with industry trends and consumer expectations.”
Just 14 of the 100 brands, including Asos, C&A, Esprit, H&M, Levi Strauss, Reformation, Tesco, and Zara owner Inditex, earned gold stars for maintaining viscose-specific policies.
