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• Implement clothing collection at scale • Alignment on the case for change
• A positive vision for a new system
Reports A New Circular recycling after use. delay action. The time to act is now, and the renewable inputs commitments to a vision-led transformation
cause of the system’s wasteful nature directly, in
are designed, produced, sold, used, collected, and
4. Make effective use of resources and move to
• Broad stakeholder buy-in and time-bound
reprocessed. However, this should not discourage or
particular, low clothing utilisation and low rates of
The need for raw material inputs in a new textiles
• Demonstration that the vision is possible with
ambitions below offer an attractive target state for the
economy would be drastically reduced due to higher
large-scale, pre-competitive, cross value-chain
industry to align on and innovate towards.
This report proposes a vision for a new textiles
1
clothing utilisation and increased recycling. However,
collaboration
economy aligned with the principles of a circular
virgin material input will likely always be required.
• Unprecedented levels of collaboration and
In such a system clothes, textiles, and fibres are kept
economy: one that is restorative and regenerative by
Where such input is needed and no recycled
alignment in areas of action
Textiles Economy design and provides benefits for business, society, at their highest value during use and re-enter the materials are available, it should increasingly come To reach unstoppable momentum towards a new
economy after use, never ending up as waste.
and the environment. This vision is distinct from, and
from renewable resources. This means using
complements, ongoing efforts to make the textiles
renewable feedstock for plastic-based fibres and
textiles economy, the existing efforts to change the
1. Phase out substances of concern and microfibre
system more sustainable by minimising its negative
regenerative agriculture to produce any renewable
system should be consolidated by a new approach
release
impacts. In such a new textiles economy, clothes,
resources.
fabric, and fibres are kept at their highest value
1. Align key industry players on a clear vision and
ensure that the material input is safe and healthy to
during use, and re-enter the economy after use, First and foremost, a new textiles economy needs to System-level change of the Textile Industry that would serve to:
secure their commitment to it
never ending up as waste. This would provide a allow cycling and to avoid negative impacts during Moving towards a circular economy goes far beyond 2. Drive large-scale, cross-value chain demonstrator
growing world population with access to high-quality the production, use, and after-use phases. This traditional measures to reduce the negative impacts projects
affordable, and individualised clothing, while means that substances that are of concern to health of the current linear system. It entails shifting to an 3. Orchestrate complementary initiatives and
regenerating natural capital, designing out pollution, or the environment are designed out and no entirely new system, and cannot be achieved merely reinforce their impact
and using renewable resources and energy. Such a pollutants such as plastic microfibres are through incremental improvements. Transforming the 4. Broadly engage stakeholders and ensure wide
system would be distributive by design, meaning inadvertently released into the environment and industry to usher in a new textiles economy requires promotion of the vision
value is circulated among enterprises of all sizes in ocean. system-level change with an unprecedented degree 5. Establish a coordinating vehicle that takes on
the industry so that all parts of the value chain can of commitment, collaboration, and innovation. these four activities
pay workers well and provide them with good 2. Transform the way clothes are designed, sold, Existing activities focused on sustainability or partial
working conditions. and used to break free from their increasingly aspects of the circular economy should be
disposable nature complemented by a concerted, global approach that 1
The four ambitions of the new textiles economy Designing and producing clothes of higher quality matches the scale of the opportunity. Some key Source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles
Textiles and clothing are a fundamental part of increased per capita sales in mature economies. The textiles. Textiles production (including cotton farming) of clothing utilisation, elsewhere rates are much and providing access to them via new business characteristics that support system shifts have been economy: Redesigning fashion’s future, (2017,
everyday life and an important sector in the global latter rise is mainly due to the ‘fast fashion’ also uses around 93 billion cubic metres of water lower. In the US, for example, clothes are only worn models would help shift the perception of clothing identified: http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.
economy. It is hard to imagine a world without phenomenon, with quicker turnaround of new styles, annually, contributing to problems in some for around a quarter of the global average. The same from being a disposable item to being a durable org/publications).
textiles. Clothes are worn by almost everyone, nearly increased number of collection. water-scarce regions. With its low rates of utilisation pattern is emerging in China, where clothing product. When garments can be worn more often
all the time, and for many are an important (leading to high levels of throughput) and low levels utilisation has decreased by 70% over the last 15 than a customer is able or willing to do, rental
expression of individuality. Globally, the USD 1.3 Existing Linear Model of Clothing Industry of recycling, the current wasteful, linear system is the years. Globally, customers miss out on USD 460 models could provide an appealing business
trillion clothing industry employs more than 300 The current system for producing, distributing, and root cause of this massive and ever-expanding billion of value each year by throwing away clothes opportunity. As the acts of buying and wearing
million people along the value chain; the production using clothing operates in an almost completely pressure on resources. that they could continue to wear, and some garments clothes fulfil a complex array of customer needs and
of cotton alone accounts for almost 7% of all linear way. Large amounts of non-renewable Clothing is massively underutilised. Worldwide, are estimated to be discarded after just seven to ten desires, a variety of sales and service models is
employment in some low-income countries. Clothing resources are extracted to produce clothes that are wears. Clothing users are acknowledging this as a needed in a new textiles economy. The take-up of
represents more than 60% of the total textiles used often used for only a short period, after which the problem, with, for example, 60% of German and new opportunities would benefit from collaborative
and is expected to remain the largest application. In materials are largely lost to landfill or incineration. It Chinese citizens admitting to owning more clothes action to stimulate the development of innovative
the last 15 years, clothing production has is estimated that more than half of fast fashion than they need. business models.
approximately doubled, driven by a growing produced is disposed of in under a year. This linear
middle-class population across the globe and system leaves economic opportunities untapped, The New Circular economy would lead to better economic, environmental, and 3. Radically improve recycling by transforming
puts pressure on resources, pollutes and degrades $ In recent years, the industry and its customers have clothing design, collection, and reprocessing
INDEX 100 IN 2000 NUMBER OF TERMS AN ITEM IS WORN the natural environment and its ecosystems, and $ $ become increasingly aware of the negative societal outcomes, capturing opportunities missed Increasing recycling represents an opportunity for
WORLD GDP CLOTHING UTILISATION FIBRE CLOTHING USE AFTER USE
>100bn PRODUCTION PRODUCTION by the current, linear, textiles system. When
CLOTHING SALES units creates significant negative societal impacts at local, environmental and societal impacts of the current the industry to capture some of the value in more
(2015) implementing these ambitions, each will come with a
200 regional, and global scales. system. Brands and retailers have started to address variety of different solutions for different applications, than USD 100 billion worth of materials lost from the
2x
190 specific environmental or societal challenges within system every year, as well as to reduce the negative
180 Today’s linear system uses large amounts of their supply chains, both individually and through and their interactions need to be taken into account. impacts of their disposal. The key areas to focus are
170 Realising these ambitions will not happen overnight.
resources and has negative impacts on the industry-wide organisations and initiatives. However, to
160 While there are some immediate profit opportunities
150 environment and people. The textiles industry relies most of these efforts are focused on reducing the • Align clothing design and recycling processes.
140 for individual businesses, collaborative efforts across
~50bn • Pursue technological innovation to improve the
130 units mostly on non-renewable resources – 98 million clothing utilisation – the average number of times a impact of the current linear system – for example, by the value chain, involving private and public-sector
(2000)
120 tonnes in total per year – including oil to produce garment is worn before it ceases to be used – has using more efficient production techniques or economics and quality of recycling.
110 synthetic fibres, fertilisers to grow cotton, and reducing the impact of materials – rather than taking actors, are required to truly transform the way clothes • Stimulate demand for recycled materials
100 decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago. While
chemicals to produce, dye, and finish fibres and many low-income countries have a relatively high rate an upstream, systemic approach to tackling the root
2000 2005 2010 2015
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