Page 28 - July-August-2020

28 48
sewing fine fabrics. However, if the needle is too thin,
thread breakage or skipped stitches may occur. In
Promoting Partnership
the worst case scenario, the needle may break due
to insufficient stability.

The solution: Special application needle SAN® 10
Initiative Chemical and
Groz-Beckert has offered the special application
needle SAN® 10 for processing fine knitted and
woven fabrics optimally for many years now. The
Environmental Management
specially designed geometry of this needle means it
is both gentle on the material and has sufficient
stability.
for sustainable causes
Its slim design means that it has a smaller
displacement cross-section in the eye area. This
Example of material damage reduces the stress on the loops or the warp threads
Excessive displacement of the warp threads and weft and weft yarns when the needle is inserted into the
fabric. This protects the material and prevents
yarns can also cause seam puckering. This problem Vietnam, China, Pakistan and Turkey. The two year
Promoting Partnership Initiative Chemical and
damage.
also increases the greater the size of the needle. project aims to improve wastewater management
Environmental Management for sustainable causes
With sustainable and innovative chemical and in textile production firstly by raising awareness
Even more gentle on the
environmental management in production facilities and building knowledge of the dangers of some of
material: The new SAN® 10 XS
in Asia, hazardous chemicals are substituted in wet the chemicals used in the wet processes of textile
Groz-Beckert has re-designed
processes. This improves occupational safety and production - bleaching, dyeing and printing. The
the special application needle
Initiative promoted access to workshops, trainings
SAN® 10 XS to enable optimal
and training materials in order to raise awareness
sewing of ever finer fabrics. The
for a sustainable and responsible use of chemicals
In modern textile production, a large number of within textile production.
geometry of the “thinner sister”
chemicals are used. Particularly in the production of the SAN® 10 needle has
step of so-called wet finishing, i.e. bleaching, To improve limited access to training options, the
been optimized and is now
dyeing or impregnating clothing, many chemicals Partnership Initiative developed two trainings, the
even more gentle on the
are used, some of which are dangerous to people Basic and Advanced Training on Chemical
material. In addition to its
and the environment. In production plants, there is Management for Wet Processes. The aim was to
extremely slim design, it also
often a lack of awareness of the problem. As a achieve sustainable improvements in local supplier
has a cylindrical blade, which
result, chemicals are stored and used in an unsafe companies. Experiences from the pilot phases of
enables the needle to be
manner, workers are not adequately protected and
Example of seam puckering the trainings confirmed the strong demand for such
inserted gently into the
waste water is not properly treated. In addition to
Thread breakage, skipped stitches and needle trainings. material. This helps to prevent
the risks to workers and the environment in the
breakage The Partnership Initiative also participated in global
or reduce damage even with
producing countries, the use of toxic chemicals
To prevent material damage and seam puckering, the dialogue formats or initiatives such as the Strategic
ultra-fine or difficult to sew
can also pose a risk to textile consumers.
needle used should be as thin as possible when Approach to International Chemicals Management
fabrics.
(SAICM) and was in exchange with the chemical
In order to resolve these issues, ‘Partnership industry. The aim was to systematically improve
However, the extremely slim
Initiative Chemical and Environmental chemicals management in international supply
geometry of the new SAN® 10
Management’ was launched on 01.12.2017 and chains and to jointly identify innovation and
XS does have an impact on its
was completed in 31.12.2019 with an aim to raise substitution opportunities in the use of chemicals.
stability. This means that there
awareness of these problems, harmonizing Despite the current challenges caused by COVID
is an increased risk of the
On trend: Fine materials that frequently occurs during sewing. The most production conditions and product requirements 19, 13 members of the Textiles Partnership have
needle breaking when using
Fashion and clothing made from fine fabrics are frequent problems are and successively replacing hazardous chemicals joined forces, including companies, associations
the SAN® 10 XS. So it is only
and the Federal Government. These members are
currently really on trend. Whether underwear, shirts, in the value chain. This was intended to protect part of it: ALDI Nord, ALDI SÜD, Bluesign
advisable to use the SAN® 10
people and the environment, especially in the
XS if the top priority is
blouses, swimwear or sportswear – fabrics are Material damage and seam puckering production countries in the Asian region. Technologies, Brands Fashion, Bundesverband
Sewing fine and ultra-fine fabrics is often extremely
preventing material damage. It
becoming ever finer. For the consumer, the main difficult. As the sewing needle is inserted into the der Deutschen Sportartikel Industrie (BSI), EDEKA-
is also advisable to always
priority is comfort and functional characteristics like material, the loops or the warp threads and weft yarns This joint initiative is working to promote Verbund, F3 Fashion Cube, German Environment
Smaller displacement
Agency, Federal Ministry of Economic Cooperation
keep the sewing thread as thin
cross-section in the
breathability or high elasticity. For the manufacturer, often experience significant displacement. With fine sustainable wastewater management in textile and Development, KiK, Oeko-Tex, Takko, Zero
as possible when using the
eye area
on the other hand, processing these fine materials is fabrics, this can result in loop breaks in extreme supply chains, focusing on Taiwan, Bangladesh, Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC).
SAN® 10 XS.
a real challenge. This is due to the material damage cases, particularly when the needle used is too thick. Example of skipped stitches
November/December 2019
July/August 2020