Page 50 - TEXtalks International June/July-2025

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BTMA members at ITMA Asia Singapore
Pulling apart patterns and
fabric fingerprinting
A leading position in the areas of testing, physical samples.
instrumentation and machine control has been
established by members of the British Textile The elusive concept of ‘fabric handle’ – the tactile
Machinery Association (BTMA) and several new sensation experienced when touching and
developments in these fields will be showcased at manipulating fabric – is a critical aspect of textile
this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition, which evaluation, but to date it’s been very subjective.
takes place in Singapore from October 28-31.
“No two people will describe how a fabric feels in
“Many of our members are currently developing new the same way and the lack of a common language
technologies, either in-house or increasingly through to describe fabric tactility poses communication
joint projects, and there will be much to reveal by the challenges across the complex global fashion and
time of ITMA Asia in Singapore,” says BTMA CEO textile supply chain,” says Roaches International MD
Jason Kent. “Some of the most recent Sean O’Neill. “How do you objectively measure
developments are really going beyond what has qualities like softness, smoothness, drape, and
previously been possible.” stiffness?”
The answer is with the new Sentire
Haptic spatial system
Roaches worked with specialists at the University of
Leeds to develop the new finished fabric evaluation
system which defines the tactile properties of fabrics
via a haptic spatial system – similar, for example, to
the way colour charts are digitally defined for colour
palettes, or Tog values rate warmth.
Fabric samples are placed into the Sentire to run a
series of tests which generate quantitative fabric
tactile property data akin to a fingerprint for the
fabric, which can then be compared against other
The new Roaches International Sentire. samples and communicated digitally to partners in
different locations.
The tactility challenge
A case in point is the new Sentire fabric handle “This technology has the potential to impact the
tester which has just been launched by Roaches supply chain in a similar way to the
International. spectrophotometer for the communication of
colour,” says O’Neill. “We have had a fantastic initial
One of the biggest challenges faced by designers response to the Sentire and its possibilities are
and manufacturers, the company explains, is in huge. Not only can it be used to compare textile
describing and sharing information about fabric tactility globally, but we are also seeing interest from
aesthetics before manufacturing, or without the online retailers who want to accurately display the
costly and time-consuming process of transporting way a particular fabric drapes on the body.”
June/July 2025
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Shelton Vision’s latest WebSpector in action. The new James Heal Martindale Motion.
Patterned fabric inspection have taken a fresh look at this classic instrument
The precise detection of defects during the and the result is the new Martindale Motion.
production of fabrics has meanwhile recently been
significantly advanced with the introduction of the This redesigned nine-station Martindale instrument
latest WebSpector automated fabric inspection with individual lifting heads now offers the flexibility
system by Shelton Vision. to run each station independently for carrying out
different textile tests simultaneously.
Building on its market-leading vision system for
plain, single colour textiles, Shelton’s Multiple textiles can be tested at the same time
patent-pending image processing techniques now through to conclusion without intervention. Once set
recognise and adapt to complex patterns such as up, the Martindale Motion can be left running with
camouflage and even on fabrics with significant the sample holders automatically lifting at the
distortion and deformation. required evaluation points, freeing up the operator’s
time to do other work without the need to return until
Fabrics are not rigid and can be sheared or the abrasion or pilling test is fully completed,
stretched while also being subject to local distortion, including overnight.
but the WebSpector system successfully deals with
such anomalies in real time to provide a reliable Each sample is kept in-tact at the end point for
inspection process at the same levels as plain fabric. evaluation and checking, reducing queries on
grading and the potential need for re-testing. Further
The unique and advanced software techniques refinements include a new hinged access to change
ensure a totally clean image, allowing the full the self-aligning drive pins, allowing quick and safe
detection of faults on fabrics running at high speeds. switching between tests.
ever before.
WebSpector systems have already been supplied to
manufacturers of performance wear and high-end Pushing the boundaries
fashion, automotive interiors, denim, outdoor “These BTMA companies continue to push the
upholstery, sunscreen, mattress ticking, window boundaries of what’s possible in the area of textile
dressings and even carbon fibre composites. testing,” says Jason Kent in conclusion. “They are
each making solid contributions to the quality and
The latest Webspector was introduced at the ITMA performance properties of today’s textile products,
2023 in Milan to great acclaim and will be and just as importantly, enabling manufacturers to
demonstrated for the first time in Asia at the prove their claims. We look forward to meeting
Singapore exhibition. customers old and new in Singapore.”
Abrasion and pilling testing Founded in 1940, the British Textile Machinery
Martindale testing needs little introduction to textile Association actively promotes British textile
manufacturers, being well established as the machinery manufacturers and their products to the
industry standard for abrasion and pilling testing world. The non-profit organisation acts as a bridge
since its initial development and introduction in 1940s. between its members and the increasingly diverse
For 2025, however, James Heal’s development team industries within the textile manufacturing sector.
June/July 2025