Page 51 - TEXtalks International June/July-2025

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BTMA members at ITMA Asia Singapore

Pulling apart patterns and

fabric fingerprinting

Shelton Vision’s latest WebSpector in action. The new James Heal Martindale Motion.
A leading position in the areas of testing, physical samples.
instrumentation and machine control has been Patterned fabric inspection have taken a fresh look at this classic instrument
established by members of the British Textile The elusive concept of ‘fabric handle’ – the tactile The precise detection of defects during the and the result is the new Martindale Motion.
Machinery Association (BTMA) and several new sensation experienced when touching and production of fabrics has meanwhile recently been
developments in these fields will be showcased at manipulating fabric – is a critical aspect of textile significantly advanced with the introduction of the This redesigned nine-station Martindale instrument
this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition, which evaluation, but to date it’s been very subjective. latest WebSpector automated fabric inspection with individual lifting heads now offers the flexibility
takes place in Singapore from October 28-31. system by Shelton Vision. to run each station independently for carrying out
“No two people will describe how a fabric feels in different textile tests simultaneously.
“Many of our members are currently developing new the same way and the lack of a common language Building on its market-leading vision system for
technologies, either in-house or increasingly through to describe fabric tactility poses communication plain, single colour textiles, Shelton’s Multiple textiles can be tested at the same time
joint projects, and there will be much to reveal by the challenges across the complex global fashion and patent-pending image processing techniques now through to conclusion without intervention. Once set
time of ITMA Asia in Singapore,” says BTMA CEO textile supply chain,” says Roaches International MD recognise and adapt to complex patterns such as up, the Martindale Motion can be left running with
Jason Kent. “Some of the most recent Sean O’Neill. “How do you objectively measure camouflage and even on fabrics with significant the sample holders automatically lifting at the
developments are really going beyond what has qualities like softness, smoothness, drape, and distortion and deformation. required evaluation points, freeing up the operator’s
previously been possible.” stiffness?” time to do other work without the need to return until
Fabrics are not rigid and can be sheared or the abrasion or pilling test is fully completed,
The answer is with the new Sentire stretched while also being subject to local distortion, including overnight.
Haptic spatial system but the WebSpector system successfully deals with
Roaches worked with specialists at the University of such anomalies in real time to provide a reliable Each sample is kept in-tact at the end point for
Leeds to develop the new finished fabric evaluation inspection process at the same levels as plain fabric. evaluation and checking, reducing queries on
system which defines the tactile properties of fabrics grading and the potential need for re-testing. Further
via a haptic spatial system – similar, for example, to The unique and advanced software techniques refinements include a new hinged access to change
the way colour charts are digitally defined for colour ensure a totally clean image, allowing the full the self-aligning drive pins, allowing quick and safe
palettes, or Tog values rate warmth. detection of faults on fabrics running at high speeds. switching between tests.
ever before.
Fabric samples are placed into the Sentire to run a WebSpector systems have already been supplied to
series of tests which generate quantitative fabric manufacturers of performance wear and high-end Pushing the boundaries
tactile property data akin to a fingerprint for the fashion, automotive interiors, denim, outdoor “These BTMA companies continue to push the
fabric, which can then be compared against other upholstery, sunscreen, mattress ticking, window boundaries of what’s possible in the area of textile
The new Roaches International Sentire. samples and communicated digitally to partners in dressings and even carbon fibre composites. testing,” says Jason Kent in conclusion. “They are
different locations. each making solid contributions to the quality and
The tactility challenge The latest Webspector was introduced at the ITMA performance properties of today’s textile products,
A case in point is the new Sentire fabric handle “This technology has the potential to impact the 2023 in Milan to great acclaim and will be and just as importantly, enabling manufacturers to
tester which has just been launched by Roaches supply chain in a similar way to the demonstrated for the first time in Asia at the prove their claims. We look forward to meeting
International. spectrophotometer for the communication of Singapore exhibition. customers old and new in Singapore.”
colour,” says O’Neill. “We have had a fantastic initial
One of the biggest challenges faced by designers response to the Sentire and its possibilities are Abrasion and pilling testing Founded in 1940, the British Textile Machinery
and manufacturers, the company explains, is in huge. Not only can it be used to compare textile Martindale testing needs little introduction to textile Association actively promotes British textile
describing and sharing information about fabric tactility globally, but we are also seeing interest from manufacturers, being well established as the machinery manufacturers and their products to the
aesthetics before manufacturing, or without the online retailers who want to accurately display the industry standard for abrasion and pilling testing world. The non-profit organisation acts as a bridge
costly and time-consuming process of transporting way a particular fabric drapes on the body.” since its initial development and introduction in 1940s. between its members and the increasingly diverse
For 2025, however, James Heal’s development team industries within the textile manufacturing sector.

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