Page 36 - TEXtalks. March- April 2023

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Forever Young
Indanthren Dyes
Can fashionable clothes be sustainable? With the
right production technology and expertise,
sustainable products can be achieved by using
better raw materials to produce higher quality
products with better physical aspects, long-lasting
fabrics, and colors. The current technologies offer a
lot of possibilities and even existing options can be
re-explored, such as DyStar’s Indanthren dyes.
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Rediscovering Indanthren Dyes for Fashion and
Sportswear
Indanthren dyes provide the highest possible
fastness performance and durability for cellulosic
fibers. It has outstanding fastness properties to light,
weather, washing, bleaching, hypochlorite,
mercerization, etc.
Due to their outstanding performance, Indanthren
dyes are commonly used in specific segments such
as workwear, military/outdoor articles, etc. But why
not use Indanthren dyes for fashion and sportswear
to achieve sustainable designs and products?
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Contrary to what is known, Indanthren recipes are Ensuring Product Ecology
very well reproducible with relatively short dyeing In terms of ecological and toxicological aspects,
processes than alternatives. In fact, one bath process Indanthren dyes can be easily removed from
for Polyester/Cellulosic blends is also possible. wastewater and very stringent eco-specifications
were implemented to ensure Indanthren dyes comply
Apart from that, the energy and water consumption of with legal and Brands & Retailers’ requirements.
Indanthren dyeing is also fairly reasonable. Due to
their fastness properties against post-bleaching, we
These eco-specifications are met with tremendous
can apply a special process named Cadira VAT. It is
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followed by post-bleaching during soaping. This effort and dedication to maintain the highest possible
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a combined scour-dyeing, using a state-of-the-art
levels of product quality and environmental
high-performance auxiliary Sera Sperse C-CAD,
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responsibility and are backed up by the most
reduces the environmental impact, saves resources,
and increases the production output, just by extensive eco-testing program of any textile chemical
supplier, which is known as the econfidence
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implementing small changes in the dyeing process. program.
Cadira ® VAT Jet Dyeing
120
®
Cadira VAT
20’
100
30-60’
10’ 10’ 20’ 10’
80
10’
2 o C/min
15’ 10’
T ( o C) 60
10’ 5’
40
10’
Bad Fastnesses? We can do better! 20
0
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270 275
t(min)
Given that their light, perspiration light, chlorine, Savings of
weather, and multiple washing fastnesses are unique, At this point, the majority of Indanthren dyes comply
Indanthren dyes can create a difference in fashion with many of the widespread MRSLs and RSLs.
products during their life cycle. For instance, currently, out of 61 globally offered
Prominent Features of Indanthren Vat Dyes Indanthren Coll and Coll liq dyestuffs:
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As Reactive dyes are the major dye class for In comparison with Reactive dyes, we can now see • 54 dyes are bluesign approved.
cellulosic fibers in the market, an overall assessment that due to a more efficient dyeing process, • 28 dyes are GOTS (Version 06) certified
between both would be meaningful. In general Indanthren dyes are more competitive in terms of • All of them are recommended for
terms, reactive dyes are water-soluble and create saving precious resources, such as energy, water, Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX (special footnotes
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chemical covalent bonds. They have good general machine capacity, etc. These contributions may go
fastnesses and provide solutions for brilliant colors beyond expectations especially when we consider to be considered)
on cellulosic fibers. the whole life cycle of the product. • All key Indanthren dyes are published on
ZDHC Gateway, complying with ZDHC MRSL
Indanthren dyes are water-insoluble and can only Dye class Process Process time (h) Amount of bathes Version 2.0
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migrate into fiber in reduced water-soluble form. They Vat dyes Cadira VAT 4.5 (5*) 5 (6*)
provide the highest possible fastness properties on Vat dyes Conventional 6 6 As seen, Indanthren dyestuffs are waiting for us to be
cellulosic fibers in many aspects especially for Reactive dyes Cadira Reactive* 5** 7*** re-discovered to contribute to Sustainability in many
difficult conditions and highly specific areas, beyond Reactive dyes Conventional 6 9*** dimensions, both with their promises in terms of
what reactive dyes can provide. Accordingly, a longer * Only for dyes with higher sensitivity to hardness resource-saving and what they provide in terms of
product life cycle can be maintained with help of the ** Recommended for up to a maximum of 4% dye concentration extending the product’s lifecycle.
* Only for dyes with higher sensitivity to hardness
best available fastness properties against aging. *** Liquor ratio 1:5 possible
* Recommended for up to a maximum of 4% dye concentration
March/April 2023