Page 37 - TEXtalks. March- April 2023
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             Contrary to what is known, Indanthren recipes are   Ensuring Product Ecology
             very well reproducible with relatively short dyeing   In terms of ecological and toxicological aspects,
             processes than alternatives. In fact, one bath process   Indanthren dyes can be easily removed from
             for Polyester/Cellulosic blends is also possible.  wastewater and very stringent eco-specifications
                                                               were implemented to ensure Indanthren dyes comply
 Forever Young   Apart from that, the energy and water consumption of   with legal and Brands & Retailers’ requirements.
             Indanthren dyeing is also fairly reasonable. Due to
             their fastness properties against post-bleaching, we
                                                               These eco-specifications are met with tremendous
             can apply a special process named Cadira  VAT. It is
                                                  ®
 Indanthren  Dyes  a combined scour-dyeing, using a state-of-the-art   effort and dedication to maintain the highest possible
 ®
                                                               levels of product quality and environmental
             high-performance auxiliary Sera  Sperse C-CAD,
                                        ®
                                                               responsibility and are backed up by the most
             followed by post-bleaching during soaping. This
             reduces the environmental impact, saves resources,
                                                               supplier, which is known as the econfidence
             and increases the production output, just by      extensive eco-testing program of any textile chemical
                                                                                                    ®
             implementing small changes in the dyeing process.    program.
                                                       Cadira ®  VAT Jet Dyeing
               120
                                                          Cadira  VAT
                                                             ®
                                                                                           20’
               100
                                    30-60’
                    10’  10’                     20’   10’
                80
                                                                                                     10’
                                                           2 o C/min
                                                                       15’    10’
               T ( o C)  60
                                                              10’  5’
                40
                                                                                                            10’
 Bad Fastnesses? We can do better!   20

                0
                  0     5    10   15   20   25   30   35   40   45   50   55   60   65   70   75   80   85   90   95  100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 140 145 150 155 160 165 170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 210 215 220 225 230 235 240 245 250 255 260 265 270 275
                                                               t(min)
 Can fashionable clothes be sustainable? With the   Given that their light, perspiration light, chlorine,   Savings of
 right production technology and expertise,   weather, and multiple washing fastnesses are unique,   At this point, the majority of Indanthren dyes comply
 sustainable products can be achieved by using   Indanthren dyes can create a difference in fashion   with many of the widespread MRSLs and RSLs.
 better raw materials to produce higher quality   products during their life cycle.  For instance, currently, out of 61 globally offered
 products with better physical aspects, long-lasting
 ®
 fabrics, and colors. The current technologies offer a   Prominent Features of Indanthren  Vat Dyes  Indanthren Coll and Coll liq dyestuffs:
                                                                                  ®
 lot of possibilities and even existing options can be   As Reactive dyes are the major dye class for   In comparison with Reactive dyes, we can now see   • 54 dyes are bluesign  approved.
 re-explored, such as DyStar’s Indanthren  dyes.  cellulosic fibers in the market, an overall assessment   that due to a more efficient dyeing process,   • 28 dyes are GOTS (Version 06) certified
 ®
 between both would be meaningful. In general   Indanthren dyes are more competitive in terms of   • All of them are recommended for
 Rediscovering Indanthren Dyes for Fashion and   terms, reactive dyes are water-soluble and create   saving precious resources, such as energy, water,      Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX  (special footnotes
                                                                                        ®
 Sportswear  chemical covalent bonds. They have good general   machine capacity, etc. These contributions may go
 Indanthren dyes provide the highest possible   fastnesses and provide solutions for brilliant colors   beyond expectations especially when we consider      to be considered)
 fastness performance and durability for cellulosic   on cellulosic fibers.  the whole life cycle of the product.  • All key Indanthren dyes are published on
 fibers. It has outstanding fastness properties to light,         ZDHC Gateway, complying with ZDHC MRSL
 weather, washing, bleaching, hypochlorite,   Indanthren dyes are water-insoluble and can only   Dye class                   Process           Process time (h)  Amount of bathes     Version 2.0
                             ®
 mercerization, etc.   migrate into fiber in reduced water-soluble form. They   Vat dyes                   Cadira  VAT                 4.5 (5*)                       5 (6*)
 provide the highest possible fastness properties on   Vat dyes                    Conventional                   6               6  As seen, Indanthren dyestuffs are waiting for us to be
 Due to their outstanding performance, Indanthren   cellulosic fibers in many aspects especially for   Reactive dyes         Cadira Reactive*                5**              7***  re-discovered to contribute to Sustainability in many
 dyes are commonly used in specific segments such   difficult conditions and highly specific areas, beyond   Reactive dyes           Conventional                    6                              9***                dimensions, both with their promises in terms of
 as workwear, military/outdoor articles, etc. But why   what reactive dyes can provide. Accordingly, a longer   * Only for dyes with higher sensitivity to hardness  resource-saving and what they provide in terms of
 not use Indanthren dyes for fashion and sportswear   product life cycle can be maintained with help of the   ** Recommended for up to a maximum of 4% dye concentration  extending the product’s lifecycle.
             * Only for dyes with higher sensitivity to hardness
 to achieve sustainable designs and products?   best available fastness properties against aging.   *** Liquor ratio 1:5 possible
             * Recommended for up to a maximum of 4% dye concentration
 March/April 2023                                                                        March/April 2023
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