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                                                       Seamless                                                                                                             Fraunhofer Institute                                         Whats New

         Whats New  The new totally-reversible seamless denim quilted  jacket                                                                                               introduces new FIDYST
                                                       denim quilted





                                                                                                                                                                            nonwoven software


                                                              new totally-reversible seamless denim quilted jacket
                                                              produced on the Santoni machine aims to provide
              jacket produced on the Santoni machine aims to
              provide greater comfort due to its dedicated areas of
              increased fit and well-being as determined by the
                                                              increased fit and well-being as determined by the
                                                              use of embedded indigo Tencel fibre and elastomers
              use of embedded indigo Tencel fibre and elastomers
              to give higher elasticity and flexibility.      greater comfort due to its dedicated areas of
                                                              to give higher elasticity and flexibility.
                                                                                                                                    With the tool FIDYST, it has been possible for the first time to simulate the movement of fibres in turbulent air
              The multi-layered seamless knitted panel consists of   The multi-layered seamless knitted panel consists of            currents, according to researchers. In the production of nonwoven materials, the fibres or threads are each
              three layers of different yarns with a reverse use. The   three layers of different yarns with a reverse use. The     stretched with the aid of air and deposited onto a conveyor belt. Depending on the speed and temperature of
              resulting quilting effect is obtained directly on the   resulting quilting effect is obtained directly on the           the air stream, a nonwoven product with the desired structure, density and strength results is achieved.
              machine by specific stitches that hold the two layers   machine by specific stitches that hold the two layers
              of fabric, together this produces a thickness in the   of fabric, together this produces a thickness in the          One widely used application is random web, in which the individual fibres display a diverse orientation, thereby
              fabric, so creating a quilting effect which increases   fabric, so creating a quilting effect which increases                          forming a random web which is simultaneously voluminous and firm.
              the profile of the relief when compared to the rest of   the profile of the relief when compared to the rest of
              the fabric, giving a unique change in its texture. The   the fabric, giving a unique change in its texture.          How precisely the fibres move in the airflow and in which orientation they land on the conveyor belt is computed
                                                                                                                                   by the simulation software FIDYST. After simulating the airflow, the user only has to enter the material properties
                                                                                                                                    of the fibres in the software. The software then simulates the dynamic behaviour of thousands of fibres. Even
                                                                                                                                       fibre mixtures can be simulated with the software. The result can be visualised in a 3D representation.
                                                    Digital Textile

                                                    Micro Factory at                                                                Machine with aim of ending textile waste


                                                    Texprocess

                                                                                                                                                                                     Tasha Lewis, assistant professor of fibre science and
                                                                                                                                                                                     apparel design in the College of Human Ecology.

              The first stage in the micro factory is the CAD/Design   Texprocess partners in the software and hardware                                                              The Fiberizer v.2, its official name, was built from the
              area. With the help of computer-aided design (CAD)   business Ergosoft and Mimaki, as well as                                                                          original proof-of-concept project Fiberizer v.1, which
              and the Vidya 3D-simulation software, creative   Coldenhove and Monti Antonio are the ones ensuring                                                                    was funded by a grant from the Environmental
              designs are put into effect in a virtual reality and/or   optimum printing results at this station.                                                                    Protection Agency and Cornell’s Atkinson Center for
              adapted. The data that emerge from this are                                                                                                                            a Sustainable Future. To fund the v.2, Lewis secured
              immediately merged with data for subsequent     After this comes the cutting area. At this juncture in                                                                 a Walmart Foundation US Manufacturing Innovation
              processes, such as the digital printing of the textile,   the production process, the individual orders need                                                           Fund grant.
              the cutting out and sewing. Texprocess partner for   first to be identified without anyone touching them.
              the Design area is Assyst, a company in the Human   Identification is made possible by automatically                 A multidisciplinary Cornell design and research team   “The grant’s call for proposals also requested
              Solutions Group.                                loading the appropriate data files for the cutting-out               has developed a unique fabric-shredding machine in   applicants to name industry partners that we could
                                                              process. A feeder system at the cutter ensures that
              The next stage (printing) demonstrates large-format   the material is transported as smoothly as possible            hopes of a zero-waste solution for the textile industry.   work with on research,” she said. “We reached out to
                                                                                                                                   “The Fiberizer project aims to put textiles, destined
                                                                                                                                                                                     Eileen Fisher’s Green Eileen [recycled clothing line],
              inkjet printing, involving sublimation printing on   and without distortion. Camera systems recognise                for the landfill, to better use as materials to create   who we have discussed potential projects with in the
              polyester and pigment printing on cotton and mixed   the cutting points, as a result of which the path the           new textiles and other products, reducing the     past.” The Irvington, New York-based apparel
              fibres. Manufacturing tasks can be flexibly combined   cutter is to take is optimised and a top-quality cut can      consumption of natural resources and diverting    company is known for embracing simplicity and
              here with various printing parameters so as to   be achieved. Texprocess partner in this area is Zünd.               unwanted clothing away from becoming waste,” said   sustainability.
              produce a print with reproducible colours.
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