Page 83 - May-June-2017

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Seamless Fraunhofer Institute Whats New

Whats New The new totally-reversible seamless denim quilted jacket introduces new FIDYST
denim quilted

nonwoven software

new totally-reversible seamless denim quilted jacket
produced on the Santoni machine aims to provide
jacket produced on the Santoni machine aims to
provide greater comfort due to its dedicated areas of
increased fit and well-being as determined by the
increased fit and well-being as determined by the
use of embedded indigo Tencel fibre and elastomers
use of embedded indigo Tencel fibre and elastomers
to give higher elasticity and flexibility. greater comfort due to its dedicated areas of
to give higher elasticity and flexibility.
With the tool FIDYST, it has been possible for the first time to simulate the movement of fibres in turbulent air
The multi-layered seamless knitted panel consists of The multi-layered seamless knitted panel consists of currents, according to researchers. In the production of nonwoven materials, the fibres or threads are each
three layers of different yarns with a reverse use. The three layers of different yarns with a reverse use. The stretched with the aid of air and deposited onto a conveyor belt. Depending on the speed and temperature of
resulting quilting effect is obtained directly on the resulting quilting effect is obtained directly on the the air stream, a nonwoven product with the desired structure, density and strength results is achieved.
machine by specific stitches that hold the two layers machine by specific stitches that hold the two layers
of fabric, together this produces a thickness in the of fabric, together this produces a thickness in the One widely used application is random web, in which the individual fibres display a diverse orientation, thereby
fabric, so creating a quilting effect which increases fabric, so creating a quilting effect which increases forming a random web which is simultaneously voluminous and firm.
the profile of the relief when compared to the rest of the profile of the relief when compared to the rest of
the fabric, giving a unique change in its texture. The the fabric, giving a unique change in its texture. How precisely the fibres move in the airflow and in which orientation they land on the conveyor belt is computed
by the simulation software FIDYST. After simulating the airflow, the user only has to enter the material properties
of the fibres in the software. The software then simulates the dynamic behaviour of thousands of fibres. Even
fibre mixtures can be simulated with the software. The result can be visualised in a 3D representation.
Digital Textile

Micro Factory at Machine with aim of ending textile waste

Texprocess

Tasha Lewis, assistant professor of fibre science and
apparel design in the College of Human Ecology.

The first stage in the micro factory is the CAD/Design Texprocess partners in the software and hardware The Fiberizer v.2, its official name, was built from the
area. With the help of computer-aided design (CAD) business Ergosoft and Mimaki, as well as original proof-of-concept project Fiberizer v.1, which
and the Vidya 3D-simulation software, creative Coldenhove and Monti Antonio are the ones ensuring was funded by a grant from the Environmental
designs are put into effect in a virtual reality and/or optimum printing results at this station. Protection Agency and Cornell’s Atkinson Center for
adapted. The data that emerge from this are a Sustainable Future. To fund the v.2, Lewis secured
immediately merged with data for subsequent After this comes the cutting area. At this juncture in a Walmart Foundation US Manufacturing Innovation
processes, such as the digital printing of the textile, the production process, the individual orders need Fund grant.
the cutting out and sewing. Texprocess partner for first to be identified without anyone touching them.
the Design area is Assyst, a company in the Human Identification is made possible by automatically A multidisciplinary Cornell design and research team “The grant’s call for proposals also requested
Solutions Group. loading the appropriate data files for the cutting-out has developed a unique fabric-shredding machine in applicants to name industry partners that we could
process. A feeder system at the cutter ensures that
The next stage (printing) demonstrates large-format the material is transported as smoothly as possible hopes of a zero-waste solution for the textile industry. work with on research,” she said. “We reached out to
Eileen Fisher’s Green Eileen [recycled clothing line],
“The Fiberizer project aims to put textiles, destined
inkjet printing, involving sublimation printing on and without distortion. Camera systems recognise for the landfill, to better use as materials to create who we have discussed potential projects with in the
polyester and pigment printing on cotton and mixed the cutting points, as a result of which the path the new textiles and other products, reducing the past.” The Irvington, New York-based apparel
fibres. Manufacturing tasks can be flexibly combined cutter is to take is optimised and a top-quality cut can consumption of natural resources and diverting company is known for embracing simplicity and
here with various printing parameters so as to be achieved. Texprocess partner in this area is Zünd. unwanted clothing away from becoming waste,” said sustainability.
produce a print with reproducible colours.