Page 144 - TEXtalks. May-June 2023
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        Reports                 Fast Fashion




             Impact on Sustainable Textiles





              100 billion garments will find their way to a United

                             States landfill in the next five years



            Fast fashion companies operate on the concept of   recycling of used textile products. This is done to
            introducing new designs and products at a rapid   ensure that less virgin materials like cotton or
            pace. Some companies come up with one new         polyester are reused. The recycling of polyester can
            design a day. This is against the basic concept of   reduce millions of tons of plastic that are thrown into
            sustainable clothing.                             the sea every year. Recycling is not an easy job, it
                                                              requires a lot of funds and new technology. Prior to
            The European Union has directed fashion retailers to   recycling accessories from the clothing are removed.
            reduce their monthly or yearly offerings that induce   These include zips, buttons, steel monograms, and
            consumers to buy more clothes than needed. The    other accessories. This again is a laborious task.
            textile sector employs over 1.5 million people in over   Again the funds for recycling are provided by
            160 000 companies, with a turnover of €162 billion in   consortiums of fashion brands and governments in
            2019. Thereafter global textiles production almost   developed countries.
            doubled between 2000 and 2015, and the
            consumption of clothing and footwear is expected to   The problem for fast fashion brands is that recycled
            increase by 63 percent by 2030. Now that it has been   polyester fiber is not as fine as virgin fiber. They are
            established that every piece of dress that is     investing millions to ensure that the recycled yarn                                                                                                                                                                                      environment and climate change. It is the third sector   treatment plants, and health and safety measures. All
            produced taxes nature severely and leaves a sizable   and fabric are as fine as the virgin. The recycling of                                                                                                                                                                               for higher use of water and land use, and the fifth for   compliance conditions are financed by the
            carbon print. The fashion designs moreover have   PET bottles had been in vogue for over a decade and                                                                                                                                                                                      the use of primary raw materials and greenhouse gas   producers. The new sustainability mantra requires a
            manmade fiber produced as a petroleum byproduct   the fiber produced is now being bought by the textile                                                                                                                                                                                    emissions. The average European throws away 11kg of   mammoth investment that small producers cannot
            causes more harm to the environment than the      millers to produce yarn for fashion fabric. Another                                                                                                                                                                                      textiles every year. Around the world, a truckload of   afford. Many might be forced to close down or will
            apparel produced from cotton which is a natural fiber   trend that is impacting fashion brands is the                                                                                                                                                                                      textiles is landfilled or incinerated every single second.  need financial help from the brands.
            and is degradable when buried in soil. But then the   tendency among consumers in developed countries
            environmentalists raise objections to the way cotton   to buy used clothes or refurbished clothing. In some                                                                                                                                                                                New design requirements for textiles under the    But no garment producer has the capacity or
            is cultivated. The crop uses a lot of water, fertilizers,   countries, about 40 percent of consumers now prefer                                                                                                                                                                            Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation of   capability to invest in the research and development
            and pesticides that pollute the environment and   buying used clothes.                                                                                                                                                                                                                     the EU, set mandatory minimums for the inclusion of   needed to develop sustainable materials or recycle
            weaken the soil. It is now almost made compulsory                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          recycled fibers in textiles, making them longer-lasting,   the used clothing into fiber and yarn. The developed
            for textile mills to use cotton produced in sustainable   According to a projection, some 100 billion garments                                                                                                                                                                             and easier to repair and recycle. Under these     governments, particularly the EU member countries,
            ways. It means using less water and using no or   will find their way to a United States landfill in the next                                                                                                                                                                              regulations, sustainable textile products will become   are at the forefront in financing these efforts and the
            minimum fertilizers and pesticides. There are     five years, and less than 1 percent of actual garment                                                                                                                                                                                    the norm in the EU. The EU has also banned the    fashion brands are also contributing millions of
            hundreds of NGOs guiding and training these       waste is recycled. The fashion industry is responsible                                                                                                                                                                                   destruction of unsold products under certain      dollars in this regard. In a few years, we might see at
            farmers in adopting the best cotton-producing     for between 8 and 10 percent of global greenhouse                                                                                                                                                                                        conditions, including unsold or returned textiles.   least 40 percent (or more) of yarn needed in textile
            practices. These NGOs are funded by retail brands,   gas emissions, more than aviation and shipping                                                                                                                                                                                        Other developed economies have not come up with   products being produced in the EU and the United
            which is a big expense. The traceability of cotton   combined. Some 70 percent of fashion's emissions                                                                                                                                                                                      such comprehensive Sustainable Products           States. This might reduce the demand for all virgin
            used in any textile product is essential to rule out the   come from its supply chains, concentrated in raw                                                                                                                                                                                Regulations but their approach towards sustainability   materials currently consumed in textiles including
            possibility of the use of cotton produced from    material production, processing, and preparation. In                                                                                                                                                                                     is about the same. This is not making life easy for fast   cotton. The garment-producing countries would be
            unsustainable methods or from areas where child   clothes and furniture, medical and protective                                                                                                                                                                                            fashion brands. They outsource their products in   dependent on raw materials in developed
            labor exists.                                     equipment, buildings and vehicles, textiles are the                                                                                                                                                                                      developing economies where they leave small       economies. Since garmenting is a labor-intensive
                                                              fabric of everyday life. European consumption of                                                                                                                                                                                         margins for the producers while ensuring full     process the stitching of garments would still remain
            The new concept introduced in recent years is the   textiles has the fourth highest impact on the                                                                                                                                                                                          compliance on various issues like labor rights, water   in low-cost countries.
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