Page 62 - TEXtalks September/October 2021
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                         GOLLER Sintensa Cyclone                                                                                   Objectives of spun oil washing

                                                                                                                                   Spun oil washing is a pre-treatment wet processing
                                                                                                                                   of synthetic woven or knitted (circular/warp knit)
                      Washing Range - First wet                                                                                    fabrics with appropriate de-oiling chemical agent to
                                                                                                                                   remove spun oils from yarn & fabric surface. These
                                                                                                                                   lubricants are applied in spinning process which
                                                                                                                                   remains on the fabric through the knitting process.
                     process of synthetic fabric                                                                                   The purpose of open width spun oil washing process
                                                                                                                                   is to make fabric pre-shrinkage, reduce and keep
                                                                                                                                   certain levelling of oil distribution on the fabric, and to
                                             production                                                                            thus ensure uniform dyeing and finishing results in
                                                                                                                                   subsequent finishing steps.


                                                                                                                                   If a grey fabric with oils on it is heat set, there is an
                                                                                                                                   accumulation of these oils in the stenter. This creates   The benefits of Goller spun oil washing ranges:
                                                              inevitable for addressing the opportunities in the                   chances of fire in the exhaust pipelines and in the   • Avoids fire hazard in stenter while pre-setting
                                                              active wear segment.                                                 heat exchangers. Oil dripping further creates quality   • Even dyeing results
                                                                                                                                   problems in subsequent processing. But after spun
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Pre shrinkage of fabric
       German Review                                          diagram 1). Goller is a major international player in                set, the stenter will remain oil-free and safe,   heavy gsm
                                                              The very first step in synthetic active wear processing
                                                                                                                                   oil washing, if the washed fabric is pre-heated and
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Suitable for wide range of fabrics from light to
                                                              or spandex processing is spun oil washing (refer to
                                                                                                                                   eliminating risks of fire and improving fabric quality.
                                                                                                                                                                                    • Environment-friendly process
                                                              this segment and a major supplier in wet finishing





            The world-wide athletic apparel market grew
            significantly between 2009 and 2020. This market is
            further estimated to grow due to peoples growing
            awareness on sport and exercise in daily life, that will
            bring in US$ 207 billion in sales by 2025 (Source:
            https://www.statista.com). There are many new
            synthetic fabric manufactures set up and increased
            their production capacity in the last decade.
                                                                Diagram 1: Process flow of synthetic fabric in dye house

            These growth statistics of athleisure products are   lines for high end synthetic fabric manufacturers
            encouraging knit processors to consider expansions   worldwide.
            and diversifications to meet the needs of this
            segment including new players from India and      GOLLER – A brief introduction
            Bangladesh. Many investments are therefore being   Goller was founded in Germany and produced first
            planned to tap the huge potential presented by this   open width textile processing ranges in 1948. Goller
            segment.                                          became a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group in
                                                              2006. The integration of Goller into the CHTC Fong’s
            Garment properties like protection, insulation,   Group helped it to develop and spread at a
            moisture permeability, stretch, shape retention,   tremendous rate with its highly engineered textile wet
            optimum heat and moisture regulation, rapid drying,   finishing ranges for the textile industry. Nowadays,
            dimensional stability even when wet, durable, easy   Goller is one of global market leaders in the
            care, light weight, soft touch, etc., are intrinsic to   manufacturing of open width textile processing
            active wear garments. However, these properties are   ranges and her wet processing ranges including
            not readily achievable in 100% cotton, circular knitted   those for spun oil washing are widely used to
            fabrics. Hence the need for synthetic circular or warp   produce high quality woven and knitted fabric in
            knitted fabric production and processing becomes   world-wide textile dyeing factories.
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