The new Jacquard Raschel machine integrates stretch, ventilation, compression and decorative structures directly into warp-knitted fabrics, reducing dependence on cut-and-sew zoning.
KARL MAYER has expanded its RASCHELTRONIC range with the RJ 4/2 EL, a high-performance Jacquard Raschel machine developed for engineered sportswear, shapewear and four-way-stretch lingerie.
The machine uses two stitch-forming Jacquard bars, allowing manufacturers to position functional and decorative structures within the fabric during knitting. It is available in E28 and E32 gauges and a 130-inch working width, with the finer E32 version aimed at smooth, soft and premium-quality surfaces.
Function is knitted into place
For performance apparel, the RJ 4/2 EL can create targeted zones for ventilation, compression, support and freedom of movement. Mesh openings can be varied according to the required breathability, while stronger and more elastic sections can be positioned around specific parts of the body.
This body-mapping approach can reduce the need to join multiple fabrics or add separate panels, potentially simplifying garment construction and limiting disruptive seams. The machine also processes bare elastane to produce four-way stretch, alongside Jacquard mesh, holes, three-dimensional textures and matt–shiny effects.
Lingerie gains softer shaping
In intimate apparel, the technology supports soft SpotNet structures, lace-like bands, multicolour effects and small-repeat surface textures. Shapewear developers can combine high-modulus zones for targeted control with lower-modulus sections intended to improve comfort and fit.
The development reflects a wider move away from uniformly rigid shapewear towards engineered garments that provide different levels of compression across the body. It also allows brands to combine functional zoning with visible fashion effects in bralettes, soft bras, loungewear and premium bodywear.
Flexibility is the commercial proposition
The machine’s two Jacquard bars can perform counter lapping and are combined with KARL MAYER’s electronic EL guide-bar control. This widens the available pattern and lapping combinations while enabling needle-specific elastane placement.
KARL MAYER has not disclosed production speeds, investment cost or comparative output data. Adoption will therefore depend on whether mills can convert the added design flexibility into higher-value orders, fewer garment components and acceptable machine utilisation. The strongest opportunity is likely to be among suppliers serving premium activewear, athleisure, lingerie and shapewear brands that require both functional differentiation and rapid collection development.
