Restricting PFAS chemicals in recycled textiles demanded

Researchers in Italy have called for a longer time scale for the introduction of rules restricting the allowed levels of PFAS chemicals in recycled textiles.

PFAS, or per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a group of human-made chemicals used in a wide range of products for their water- and grease-resistant properties.

They have been manufactured and used in a variety of industries around the globe since the 1940s.

PFAS chemicals are highly stable and do not break down easily in the environment, which has led to their widespread presence in soil, water, and air.

The concern surrounding PFAS arises from their persistence in the environment and the potential health risks associated with exposure. Studies have linked exposure to certain PFAS chemicals with adverse health effects, including developmental and reproductive issues, liver damage, immune system disorders, and an increased risk of certain cancers.

Due to these concerns, there has been a push to limit the use of PFAS in various products and to regulate their disposal to prevent environmental contamination and protect public health.



A research team from the Prato-based TIL Test and Innovation Lab in conjunction with Confindustria Toscana Nord, examined 93 samples of recycled wool, cashmere, cotton, and synthetic fibres and yarns with 49 samples consisting of virgin fibres also scrutinized.

The key finding was that 100 percent of the regenerated samples examined contained measurable total contamination from organic fluorine.

Moreover, in 86 percent of the cases, concentrations were between 5mg and 50mg F/kg, 12 percent had concentrations between 50 and 100mg F/kg, and 2 percent of samples contained total organic fluorine of more than 100mg F/kg.

The problem of these substances is an extremely current problem – even in textiles – especially now that different countries are seeking to ban them by applying increasingly restrictive standards. PFAS contamination is present even when these substances are not directly used as part of the processing cycle.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is currently considering following the lead of lawmakers in California by introducing a 50 mg F/kg limit in all textiles by the beginning of 2027.



If this takes place, however, researchers warned that the market for recycled textiles could risk a significant slowdown. “Under these conditions, the manufacturer, importer, or user downstream, in case of samples with total organic fluorine above 50 mg F/kg, will never be able to demonstrate the origin of any fluorine detected.

The proponents of this study propose setting a 12-year derogation for the application of restrictions to recycled fabrics, to give the industry time to develop processes and technologies that will allow it to manage this restriction.