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Efforts for Sustainable Denim
Naveena denim Pakistan and UK-based
Endrime in highlights
As the supply chain needs continue to change, both supplying the sewing threads also made from
brands and consumers look for more sustainable Lenzing’s lyocell, to ensure the jeans are 100%
options without sacrificing the look. They feel that biodegradable. Naveena denim has used REFIBRA
consumers love their favorite pair of jeans. In this yarns. The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology
regard, various brands and companies are putting involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment
their efforts. Endrime will launch a collection of production. REFIBRA™ is a new generation of
exclusive new jeans resulting from the supply ecological fabrics made of upcycled cotton scraps
chain-wide Bast Recast project. Endrime is a from pre & post-consumer cotton waste and Lenzing
UK-based denim brand. The Endrime denim is based ™ Lyocell fibers coming from wood pulp. Refibra™
on hemp fibers supplied by Kingdom Hemp from the fabrics are naturally soft and gentle on the skin,
Heilongjiang region of China, blended with Refibra breathable, and compostable.
and Modal lyocell from Austria-headquartered UNIDO and Nudie jeans
Lenzing. Spain’s Jeanologica has also been involved in the
project to provide authentic period washes for the
Similarly, Naveena denim Pakistan has blended the denim. All of the scrap from production is retained recycling second quality
three fibers and spun and woven a range of 8-12oz and repulped into lyocell and hemp paper for the
denim fabrics from the resulting yarns, with Crafil hangtags and labels. or export leftover jeans
for environmental benefits
Apparel sector appeals to the Govt Second-quality jeans are those that don’t quite meet is looking at ways to make use of second-quality
to ban Cotton Yarn export quality standards – the wash may be too dark; the jeans to maintain the highest quality of its products,
while reducing the environmental impact of the
stitching may not be quite right, or the cut may be
irregular. Usually they are sold for discount prices or
production process. To develop greener production
just thrown away. They are also called as export processes in Tunisia, Nudie Jeans has been working
The availability of the cotton yarn in the local market is already very low which poses as a huge challenge for leftovers. In industrial practices, such jeans become with the United Nations Industrial Development
the apparel sector. In these circumstances, a 35.86 recorded increase in the cotton yarn export is making a an environmental burden as the quality control Organization (UNIDO) as part of the European
layer of panic go through the apparel makers. These apparel makers are already seeking a ban on cotton yarn departments won’t let them clear for shipment. In Union-funded SwitchMed project.
export as this premium raw material should be utilized by Pakistan to manufacture high value added products other words, these are now the unwanted or rejected
like garments which will in turn in earning foreign exchange. garments. Roberta De Palma, Chief Technical Advisor at
UNIDO, said, “The current production system for
The value added products of knitwear, bedwear, towel and readymade garments have witnessed a decline of According to the United Nations, approximately fashion goods uses high volumes of virgin fibers,
26.14, 7.35, 11.36 and 0.42 percent respectively in February 2021 compared to January 2021. The rising 10,000 liters of water are required to make one single which creates a significant pressure on valuable
volume of export of cotton yarn had deteriorated apparel sector’s growth as the country continued to face pair of jeans from the production of the cotton to the resources, such as water. Exploring ways for
energy shortage, said Pakistan Apparel Forum chairman Muhammad Jawed Bilwani. delivery of the final product to the store. Water recycling post-industrial textile waste could reduce
scarcity has long been a challenge in Tunisia but this dependency and support the development of a
The government should also abolish the existing five percent customs duty on import of cotton yarn below 40 climate change, combined with rapid urbanization, recycling infrastructure in the production countries.”
single count. Cotton yarn prices surged 40 percent, but even at that exorbitant rate it was unavailable on the has made the problem even more acute. With
local market, he added. demands from industry and agriculture putting Brinkberg, the Swedish company’s environmental
immense pressure on Tunisia’s water resources, manager, said, “Eight thousand pairs of
The situation has also compelled the exporters not to take new orders and for that reason such export orders Nudie Jeans and UNIDO are hoping their project will second-choice jeans are being used, together with
meant for Pakistan shall be diverted to other regional countries. The dollar had depreciated against the rupee show a way to do more with less. virgin denim fabric, to create 20,000 meters of new
by seven percent, which was also a matter of concern for the exporters as the situation might lead to a liquidity fabric. From this new fabric, 15,000 pairs of new
crunch, Bilwani said. Nudie Jeans, a global leader in sustainable fashion, jeans will be created.”
February/March 2021 February/March 2021

