Page 17 - February-March 2021
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 Efforts for Sustainable Denim


 Naveena denim Pakistan and UK-based



 Endrime in highlights




 As the supply chain needs continue to change, both   supplying the sewing threads also made from
 brands and consumers look for more sustainable   Lenzing’s lyocell, to ensure the jeans are 100%
 options without sacrificing the look. They feel that   biodegradable. Naveena denim has used REFIBRA
 consumers love their favorite pair of jeans. In this   yarns. The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology
 regard, various brands and companies are putting   involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment
 their efforts. Endrime will launch a collection of   production. REFIBRA™ is a new generation of
 exclusive new jeans resulting from the supply   ecological fabrics made of upcycled cotton scraps
 chain-wide Bast Recast project. Endrime is a   from pre & post-consumer cotton waste and Lenzing
 UK-based denim brand. The Endrime denim is based   ™ Lyocell fibers coming from wood pulp. Refibra™
 on hemp fibers supplied by Kingdom Hemp from the   fabrics are naturally soft and gentle on the skin,
 Heilongjiang region of China, blended with Refibra   breathable, and compostable.
 and Modal lyocell from Austria-headquartered   UNIDO and Nudie jeans
 Lenzing.  Spain’s Jeanologica has also been involved in the
 project to provide authentic period washes for the
 Similarly, Naveena denim Pakistan has blended the   denim. All of the scrap from production is retained   recycling second quality
 three fibers and spun and woven a range of 8-12oz   and repulped into lyocell and hemp paper for the
 denim fabrics from the resulting yarns, with Crafil   hangtags and labels.  or export leftover jeans
                for environmental benefits


 Apparel sector appeals to the Govt   Second-quality jeans are those that don’t quite meet   is looking at ways to make use of second-quality


 to ban Cotton Yarn export    quality standards – the wash may be too dark; the   jeans to maintain the highest quality of its products,
                                                               while reducing the environmental impact of the
             stitching may not be quite right, or the cut may be
             irregular. Usually they are sold for discount prices or
                                                               production process. To develop greener production
             just thrown away. They are also called as export   processes in Tunisia, Nudie Jeans has been working
 The availability of the cotton yarn in the local market is already very low which poses as a huge challenge for   leftovers. In industrial practices, such jeans become   with the United Nations Industrial Development
 the apparel sector. In these circumstances, a 35.86 recorded increase in the cotton yarn export is making a   an environmental burden as the quality control   Organization (UNIDO) as part of the European
 layer of panic go through the apparel makers. These apparel makers are already seeking a ban on cotton yarn   departments won’t let them clear for shipment. In   Union-funded SwitchMed project.
 export as this premium raw material should be utilized by Pakistan to manufacture high value added products   other words, these are now the unwanted or rejected
 like garments which will in turn in earning foreign exchange.   garments.  Roberta De Palma, Chief Technical Advisor at
                                                               UNIDO, said, “The current production system for
 The value added products of knitwear, bedwear, towel and readymade garments have witnessed a decline of   According to the United Nations, approximately   fashion goods uses high volumes of virgin fibers,
 26.14, 7.35, 11.36 and 0.42 percent respectively in February 2021 compared to January 2021. The rising   10,000 liters of water are required to make one single   which creates a significant pressure on valuable
 volume of export of cotton yarn had deteriorated apparel sector’s growth as the country continued to face   pair of jeans from the production of the cotton to the   resources, such as water. Exploring ways for
 energy shortage, said Pakistan Apparel Forum chairman Muhammad Jawed Bilwani.  delivery of the final product to the store. Water   recycling post-industrial textile waste could reduce
             scarcity has long been a challenge in Tunisia but   this dependency and support the development of a
 The government should also abolish the existing five percent customs duty on import of cotton yarn below 40   climate change, combined with rapid urbanization,   recycling infrastructure in the production countries.”
 single count. Cotton yarn prices surged 40 percent, but even at that exorbitant rate it was unavailable on the   has made the problem even more acute. With
 local market, he added.  demands from industry and agriculture putting   Brinkberg, the Swedish company’s environmental
             immense pressure on Tunisia’s water resources,    manager, said, “Eight thousand pairs of
 The situation has also compelled the exporters not to take new orders and for that reason such export orders   Nudie Jeans and UNIDO are hoping their project will   second-choice jeans are being used, together with
 meant for Pakistan shall be diverted to other regional countries. The dollar had depreciated against the rupee   show a way to do more with less.  virgin denim fabric, to create 20,000 meters of new
 by seven percent, which was also a matter of concern for the exporters as the situation might lead to a liquidity   fabric. From this new fabric, 15,000 pairs of new
 crunch, Bilwani said.  Nudie Jeans, a global leader in sustainable fashion,   jeans will be created.”

 February/March 2021                                                                February/March 2021
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