Page 52 - November-December-2020
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draft of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              be manifold and may be related to cotton cultivation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                main dra
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              and harvesting methods. However, a crucial aspect
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              is that the economic pressure on spinning mills and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                levellin
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              their production costs is increasing, leading to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                much too
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              use of ever shorter fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                For comp
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                the main
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                exceeds
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Development history of the IDF at Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              It takes time for optimised processes to establish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              themselves on the market. This is because process
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              shortening initially presents a challenge in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              spinning mill. It must be ensured that the same yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              quality is achieved in terms of processing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              parameters such as strength, elasticity or
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              appearance. In the mid-nineties, at the beginning of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the IDF development, it was unimaginable that yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              could be produced from 100 percent noils, but today
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              this is certainly the case. This is also a way for large
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              combing mills to include their own waste in the value
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                By elimi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              chain and selling it with added value. Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              has significantly advanced this development and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                drafting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              implemented the IDF system in 1999, based on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                levellin
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Spanish market requirements for the card TC 11. In
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                compensa
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the following years, it was continuously developed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                optimise
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              and improved.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                find the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                because
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              In 2013 Truetzschler presented a fundamental
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and cons
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                2 is thu
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              revision: The Integrated Draw Frame IDF 2. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                but also
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              special feature was the reduction of two drafting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                advantag
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              zones to one. Thus, the IDF 2 responds to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                have to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              increasingly urgent demands of our customers for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                qualifie
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              production cost reduction on the one hand and a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                evaluate
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              high quality standard despite poor raw material
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              qualities on the other. This is because only the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              1-zone drafting system allows particularly low drafts,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                When usi
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              which are the decisive guarantee of success for the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         the shortening of processes means lower staff
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        dependent on the presence and experience of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                masses a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              processing of particularly short fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                during l
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         numbers are possible, whilst the IDF also provides a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        employees in a spinning mill. Nowadays, it is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         solution for tackling the increasing demand for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        significantly influenced by futuristic plant solutions
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                consumpt
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              The main difference between IDF 1 and IDF 2 lies in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and intelligent machine systems. In the world of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                and top
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         spinning high-grade yarns from inferior raw material.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              the drafting system itself. Experience has shown that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                width of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        spinning, options for shortening processes, and thus
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              low total drafts are the key to success – especially
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         For years, Truetzschler has been watching the trend
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                the clev
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        reducing outlay in production, are becoming more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and more relevant. One example is the IDF
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              with short-staple cotton, which is usually used in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                led to a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         that fiber lengths used in the rotor yarn sector in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        integrated draw frame from Truetzschler which so far
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              rotor spinning. However, dividing this small draft into
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         particular are becoming shorter and shorter. In 2003,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              break draft and main draft results in more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         the average fiber length for our customers’ rotor yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                The IDF
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        is superior to all competitor solutions. It can be used
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              disadvantages than advantages. For instance, if the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        to combine two important aspects which currently
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                This dri
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         installations was 28.5 mm, today it is only 26 mm.
                              Italian Review                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            the rotor spinning process allows a faster production   polyester multifilament as T-400® and a cotton fiber.                                                           C.A.T. C
       52                                                                                                                                                                                                                             53                                                                High yarn quality is becoming less and less      heavily occupy the minds of our customers. For one,                  This is a remarkable decline. The reasons for this can   g
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        cycle and greater output, saving in floor space and   This special yarn offers improved recovery and                                                                    Availabl
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        capital investment. The process was developed in   strength compared to traditional core spun                                                                           The wind
 means of an integrated light barrier, resulting in   actual tension being applied. (IDF 1 break draft 1.0).                                                                                                                                                                                            the ‘60-70 since it was more economical and       technology.                                                                                                           Tensor,
 perfect synchronisation between card and IDF. The   The second diagram illustrates that IDF 2 and IDF 1                                                                                                                                                                                                resulted in a more consistent yarn thickness. The                                                                                                                       with the
 levelled loop permits high change speeds. This   both have the same trend, i.e. that the yarn strength                                                                                                                                                                                                 rotor design is the key to the operation of the   Moistair® Splicer                                                                                                     device,
 ensures a higher efficiency at the card, especially   decreases with increasing total draft. Compared to                                                                                                                                                                                               open-ended spinners. This system is much less     Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution                                                                        machine
 when using small rotor cans.  IDF 1, IDF 2 shows overall strength at a higher level.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   labor-intensive and faster than ring spinning.    A common problem faced by the stretch fabric                                                                          adjust t
 This confirms the statement that the use of only one   Solutions for Denim                                                                                                                                                                                                                             Features of Open End Yarn:                                                                                                                                              yarn as
 drafting zone has a positive effect on the yarn                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Abbreviated production cycle, optimized cost                                                                                                                          Tensor,
 properties.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            production                                                                                                                                                              just bef
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                detects
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • More uniform surface
 Development of the IDF 2                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               • Yarn can absorb indigo dye deeper into the core                                                                                                                       winding
 The IDF 2 has been established on the market for   Yarn Processing                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             sensor d
 seven years. The advantages of the system are now                                                                                 Denim & Winding                                  spun technology. Savio winding machine can easily                                                                   Single Core Spun Yarn                                                                                                 on compact yarns, besides offering the strength,   any mov
 recognised by the entire professional community,                                                                                  Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution   process special and challenging yarns. Savio                                                                        Core spun yarn is created by twisting staple fibers                                                                   needs to provide an extremely good appearance not   perfor
 competitors and customers. Initially, the shortened                                                                                                                                winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension                                                                                                                                                                                        to create a visible defect on the finest fabrics. The   sy
 process was only used with 100 percent cotton –   Savio automatic winders can easily process special and                                                                           control devices for ensuring perfect joints and                                                                                                                                                                                           Twinsplicer for core yarns preserves the elastomeric
 preferably from the recycling sector – but today it is                                                                                                                             perfect package shape. A common problem faced                                                                                                                                                                                             filament entirely inside the splices.             Tensorfl
              challenging yarns; now the most demanding product is                                                                                                                  by the stretch fabric manufacturers is the breakage                                                                                                                                                                                       Main application range:                           of elast
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                blended
                                               core spun yarns                                                                                                                      of the yarns during downstream process.                                                                                                                                                                                                   • Cotton 100%                                     wool/cot
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                values m
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              • Cotton 100% Effect yarns
                                                                                                                                                                                    The well-known Savio Twinsplicer® still represents                                                                                                                    manufacturers is the breakage of the yarns during                   • Compact Yarns                                   diversif
 The combination of Truetzschler cards with IDF 2   The Savio winding unit is equipped with clearing,                                                                               the solution to achieve the best performance of a                                                                                                                     production. Savio offers a new splicing technology,                 • Elastomeric yarns                               package
                                                                                                                                                                                    “perfect joint” on Core Yarns, mainly “single core”
 gives customers an advantage, because they                                                                                                                                         with cotton, but also positive results have been                                                                                                                      combining air and water, which has given perfect                    • Cotton and blends                               ensure a
 produce a thin, stable web which is perfectly suited   splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect                                                                   achieved with Dual Core Yarns. In this field, Savio   Italian Review                                                                                                  results in this area. MOISTAIR® splicer gives the
 to be drawn directly to the desired sliver count – at                                                                                                                              can also offer the new splicing technology combining                                                                                                                  best performance with elastic core yarns.                           Clearing of Core Yarns                            C.A.D. D
 highest production rates and lowest drafts. If cards   splices and perfect package shape                                                                                           air and water, Moistair®, which represents the most                                                                                                                   MOISTAIR® is an innovative air splicer using a very                 The structure of core yarns is a special challenge   (Opti
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Availabl
 produce a heavier web, the use of low drafts is not                                                                                                                                flexible solution of any kind of yarn.                                                                                                                                small quantity of water (spray).                                    during quality control. One of the typical faults is the
 possible at all, as, for example, from 12 ktex to 5 ktex                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       density
 a draft of 2.4 is applied.  Denim is integrated into our lifestyle. Denim is always   requested, especially for womenswear. Keeping up                                             Denim & Rotor Spinning                                                                                              around a central elastomeric filament core, usually   It is endowed with a water valve with a dosage                                                                    pressure
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          setting to moisture the splice. Suitable for almost all
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        made of LYCRA® fiber. Different basic fibers (short
            popular and its market is expanding. As lifestyle   with this trend of stretch denim, many yarn & fabric               To allows the warping process to be best achieved,   Available on Helios                                                                                                                                               kind of short and long spun yarns, with the exclusion
 One versus two drafting zones – technological   no longer limited to this. The system is successfully   changes, so does denim – with new weights, fibers,   manufacturers are offering core yarns with improved                                                                                       and long staple) are commonly used: cotton,
 advantages   applied in the processing of 100 percent raw cotton   finishing techniques, application treatments and   recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of   winding machines produce big cylindrical packages,                                                                       viscose, siro, woolen blends.                     of plied cotton, high twisted wool yarns and linen.
 In order to show the influence of the distribution of   and other materials. It thus offers an answer to the   end-uses. Denim today it is worn everywhere: add   cotton next to the skin.   usually 300mm in diameter and over, with high                                                                                                               The MOISTAIR® has delivered superior
 drafts on main draft and break draft as opposed to   requirements of our customers with regard to   spandex for fitand comfort, Tencel® for luster,   density. The peculiar robustness and strength of                                                                                                 Dual Core Spun Yarn                               performances on TENCEL® and fine counts fabrics.
 only one draft zone, a yarn of 100 percent raw cotton   increasing and necessary flexibility in the production   polyester for wear, wool for warmth, flax for looks.  Dual-core spun yarns are a combination of two   denim is given by the thickness of the yarn.                                    Dual core spun yarns are made of three
 (Mato Grosso) with Ne27 was spun in the direct   process.    different stretch products such as LYCRA® fiber and                                                                                                                                                                                       components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a    Main application range:
 spinning process with a card production of 170kg/h.   Dye it into bright colors, or print or embellish it. Along   LYCRA® T400® fiber; this yarn increases stretch   The demand for yarns with elastomeric core is                                                                                                                                       • Short and long spun yarns
 With IDF 1, break drafts of 1.0, 1.05 and 1.16 with   The handling of the IDF has also been improved. For   with pants, denim is now available in coats, jackets,   power and provides great shape conformity for   expanding and plays an important role because of                                                                                     • TENCEL®
 different main drafts were combined. The IDF 2 was   example, there is now a retention lock that prevents   skirts, dresses, eveningwear, accessories and   advanced comfort. This stretch technology hidden   fashion versatility and flexibility. Stretch garments are                                                                                 • Elastic core yarns
 run with drafts of 1.2 to 1.95. The tests showed the   the cover of the IDF from always having to be   footwear. It is worn everywhere by men, women and   within the yarn eliminates the “bagging knee   playing an important role inside this scenario, denim                                                                                          • Very fine cotton yarns
 trend across all parameters that IDF 2 with its 1-zone   opened completely during the piecing process.   children. Denim is the fabric of choice and its   syndrome” and creates a new standard for superior   jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially                                                                                       • Coarse and slub yarns
 drafting system has clear advantages over IDF 1.  Similarly, the use of maintenance-free deep groove   popularity is growing. Tencel® has taken off in denim   shape retention and recovery performance, providing   for womenswear. Keeping up this trend of stretch                                                                                    • Dual core yarns
                                                                                                                                   denim, many yarn & fabric manufacturers are
 ball bearings entirely eliminates the need for   at the high end of denim market. It offers softness,   a soft cotton hand and natural appearance.  offering duo core yarns with improved recovery and
 The first diagram shows the influence on yarn   relubrication at the delivery rollers: The number of   strength and sustainability. The softness of Tencel®                                                                                                                                                                                              Twinsplicer
 evenness for a total draft of 1.7. There is clear   lubrication points is thus reduced to four. The   is especially popular in womenswear with skinny   The technology has relevance not only for jeans and   strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to                                                                                    Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution                      so-called strip-back. Due to a slippage between the
 evidence that the break draft in the IDF has a   jeans.      trousers, but also for denim leggings that lately have               the skin.                                        Rotor spinning (commonly called “Open End                                                                                                                             The Twinsplicer, the unique selling proposition of                  inner elastomeric filament and the staple fiber, the   the
 negative influence on yarn parameters. It is   self-adjusting lap monitoring of the top rollers,   become popular. The added strength provided by                                  spinning”) is a process that incorporates spinning                                                                                                                    Savio, provides top quality splice. The way the splice              core is not completely covered with the cotton fibers.   “
 noteworthy that for all quality parameters, the   already known from the draw frames, has now also   The trend toward body-fitting yet comfortable fashion   polyester helps these fabrics withstand bleaching   Dual core spun yarns are consisting of three   and winding operations. With the Open End system,                                        is prepared and made, ranks the Twinsplicer at the                  As elastane and cotton have different characteristics   pr
 presence of the first drafting zone in the IDF 1 alone   found its way to the IDF. There is no need to readjust   apparel is very demanding and challenging. Stretch   and washing techniques, even on denim with   components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a   the sliver coming from the draw frame is directly                                   top among all other splicing devices. The splicer                   during dyeing, these faults can become visible in the   wi
 has a negative effect on the results, without any   after grinding intervals and changed settings.                                polyester multifilament as T-400® and astaple fiber-                                                                                                                                                                   strength is close to parent yarn, keeping the                       final product. The yarn clearer can identify faults   Spec
            garments are playing an important role inside this   treatments such as antique finishes, whisker washing              mainly cotton. This special yarn offers improved   converted into yarn, wound onto package cones. In                                                                                                                   appearance the same as the parent yarn. The splicer                 during winding; also faults in core yarns can be   especia
            scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly     and sandblasting.                                                    recovery and strength compared to traditional core   the count range in which it can be used, the use of                                                                                                                                                                                   identified.                                       severe c
               November/December 2020                                                                                                                                                                    November/December 2020
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