Page 54 - November-December-2020
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be manifold and may be related to cotton cultivation
                                                                                                                                                                                    draft of 1.15, then only a draft of 1.13 remains for the
                                                                                                                                   and harvesting methods. However, a crucial aspect
                                                                                                                                                                                    main draft (1.15*1.13 = 1.3). This means that the
                                                                                                                                                                                    levelling dynamic is limited to 13 percent. This is
                                                                                                                                   is that the economic pressure on spinning mills and
                                                                                                                                                                                    much too low to respond to short-wave fluctuations.
                                                                                                                                   their production costs is increasing, leading to the
                                                                                                                                   use of ever shorter fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                    For comparison: With the autoleveller draw frame,
                                                                                                                                                                                    the main draft and thus the levelling range often
                                                                                                                                                                                    exceeds 400 percent.
                                                                                                                                   Development history of the IDF at Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                   It takes time for optimised processes to establish
                                                                                                                                   themselves on the market. This is because process
                                                                                                                                   shortening initially presents a challenge in the
                                                                                                                                   spinning mill. It must be ensured that the same yarn
                                                                                                                                   quality is achieved in terms of processing
                                                                                                                                   parameters such as strength, elasticity or
                                                                                                                                   appearance. In the mid-nineties, at the beginning of
                                                                                                                                   the IDF development, it was unimaginable that yarn
                                                                                                                                   could be produced from 100 percent noils, but today
                                                                                                                                   this is certainly the case. This is also a way for large
                                                                                                                                   combing mills to include their own waste in the value
                                                                                                                                   chain and selling it with added value. Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                                                                    By eliminating the break draft in the IDF 2, the entire
                                                                                                                                   has significantly advanced this development and
                                                                                                                                                                                    drafting takes place in one drafting zone. Thus the
                                                                                                                                   implemented the IDF system in 1999, based on
                                                                                                                                                                                    levelling range is fully utilised. Fluctuations are ideally
                                                                                                                                   Spanish market requirements for the card TC 11. In
                                                                                                                                                                                    compensated this way. If two parameters must be
                                                                                                                                                                                    optimised simultaneously, it is much more difficult to
                                                                                                                                   the following years, it was continuously developed
                                                                                                                                   and improved.
                                                                                                                                                                                    find the technologically better setting. This is
                                                                                                                                                                                    because break draft and main draft must be varied
                                                                                                                                                                                    and constantly adapted to material changes. The IDF
                                                                                                                                   In 2013 Truetzschler presented a fundamental
                                                                                                                                                                                    2 is thus not only the better technological solution,
                                                                                                                                   revision: The Integrated Draw Frame IDF 2. The
                                                                                                                                   special feature was the reduction of two drafting
                                                                                                                                                                                    but also simplifies handling. This is a particular
                                                                                                                                   zones to one. Thus, the IDF 2 responds to the
                                                                                                                                                                                    advantage, since nowadays many spinning mills
                                                                                                                                                                                    have to deal with the problem of having hardly any
                                                                                                                                   increasingly urgent demands of our customers for
                                                                                                                                                                                    qualified personnel available to technologically
                                                                                                                                   production cost reduction on the one hand and a
                                                                                                                                                                                    evaluate settings of this kind.
                                                                                                                                   high quality standard despite poor raw material
                                                                                                                                   qualities on the other. This is because only the
                                                                                                                                   1-zone drafting system allows particularly low drafts,
                                                                                                                                                                                    When using a normal-width drafting system, larger
                                                              the shortening of processes means lower staff
                                                                                                                                                                                    masses are accelerated and decelerated again
            dependent on the presence and experience of
                                                                                                                                   which are the decisive guarantee of success for the
                                                                                                                                   processing of particularly short fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                    during levelling, which can lead to increased energy
                                                              numbers are possible, whilst the IDF also provides a
            employees in a spinning mill. Nowadays, it is
                                                              solution for tackling the increasing demand for
                                                                                                                                                                                    consumption. For this reason the width of the bottom
            significantly influenced by futuristic plant solutions
                                                                                                                                                                                    and top rollers of the IDF 2 has been reduced to the
            and intelligent machine systems. In the world of
                                                              spinning high-grade yarns from inferior raw material.
                                                                                                                                   The main difference between IDF 1 and IDF 2 lies in
                                                                                                                                   the drafting system itself. Experience has shown that
                                                                                                                                                                                    width of a sliver. This also allowed the introduction of
            spinning, options for shortening processes, and thus
                                                              For years, Truetzschler has been watching the trend
                                                                                                                                   low total drafts are the key to success – especially
            reducing outlay in production, are becoming more
                                                                                                                                                                                    the clever solution of rotating top rollers, which has
            and more relevant. One example is the IDF
                                                                                                                                                                                    led to a doubling of the service life before grinding.
                                                                                                                                   with short-staple cotton, which is usually used in
                                                              that fiber lengths used in the rotor yarn sector in
                                                                                                                                   rotor spinning. However, dividing this small draft into
            integrated draw frame from Truetzschler which so far
                                                              particular are becoming shorter and shorter. In 2003,
                                                                                                                                                                                    The IDF 2 also introduced the sliver loop storage.
                                                                                                                                   break draft and main draft results in more
                                                              the average fiber length for our customers’ rotor yarn
            is superior to all competitor solutions. It can be used
            to combine two important aspects which currently
                                                                                                                                                                                    This driven deflection roller levels the sliver loop by
                                                                                                                                   disadvantages than advantages. For instance, if the
                                                              installations was 28.5 mm, today it is only 26 mm.
       54   High yarn quality is becoming less and less       heavily occupy the minds of our customers. For one,                  This is a remarkable decline. The reasons for this can   goal is to achieve a 1.3-fold total draft using a break   55
             the rotor spinning process allows a faster production   polyester multifilament as T-400® and a cotton fiber.                                                          C.A.T. Computer Aided Tension
             cycle and greater output, saving in floor space and   This special yarn offers improved recovery and                                                                   Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution
             capital investment. The process was developed in   strength compared to traditional core spun                                                                          The winding tension is detected continuously by the
 means of an integrated light barrier, resulting in   actual tension being applied. (IDF 1 break draft 1.0).  the ‘60-70 since it was more economical and   technology.             Tensor, which interacts
 perfect synchronisation between card and IDF. The   The second diagram illustrates that IDF 2 and IDF 1   resulted in a more consistent yarn thickness. The                        with the yarn tensioner
 levelled loop permits high change speeds. This   both have the same trend, i.e. that the yarn strength   rotor design is the key to the operation of the   Moistair® Splicer       device, through the
 ensures a higher efficiency at the card, especially   decreases with increasing total draft. Compared to   open-ended spinners. This system is much less   Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution  machine PC, in order to
 when using small rotor cans.  IDF 1, IDF 2 shows overall strength at a higher level.   labor-intensive and faster than ring spinning.  A common problem faced by the stretch fabric   adjust the load on the
 This confirms the statement that the use of only one   Features of Open End Yarn:                                                                                                  yarn as required. The
 drafting zone has a positive effect on the yarn   • Abbreviated production cycle, optimized cost                                                                                   Tensor, being positioned
 properties.  production                                                                                                                                                            just before the drum,
             • More uniform surface                                                                                                                                                 detects online the real
 Development of the IDF 2   • Yarn can absorb indigo dye deeper into the core                                                                                                       winding tension. The
 The IDF 2 has been established on the market for                                                                                                                                   sensor does not have
 seven years. The advantages of the system are now   Denim & Winding    spun technology. Savio winding machine can easily   Single Core Spun Yarn  on compact yarns, besides offering the strength,   any movable part and
 recognised by the entire professional community,   Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution  process special and challenging yarns. Savio   Core spun yarn is created by twisting staple fibers   needs to provide an extremely good appearance not   performs as “anti-wrap
 competitors and customers. Initially, the shortened   winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension                          to create a visible defect on the finest fabrics. The   system”.
 process was only used with 100 percent cotton –   control devices for ensuring perfect joints and                                 Twinsplicer for core yarns preserves the elastomeric
 preferably from the recycling sector – but today it is                                                                            filament entirely inside the splices.            Tensorflex: In presence
 perfect package shape. A common problem faced                                                                                                                                      of elastomeric yarn
 by the stretch fabric manufacturers is the breakage                                                                               Main application range:                          blended with
 of the yarns during downstream process.                                                                                           • Cotton 100%                                    wool/cotton, the tension
 The well-known Savio Twinsplicer® still represents           manufacturers is the breakage of the yarns during                    • Cotton 100% Effect yarns                       values must be
                                                                                                                                                                                    diversified during the
                                                                                                                                   • Compact Yarns
 the solution to achieve the best performance of a            production. Savio offers a new splicing technology,
 The combination of Truetzschler cards with IDF 2   “perfect joint” on Core Yarns, mainly “single core”                            • Elastomeric yarns                              package formation to
 gives customers an advantage, because they   with cotton, but also positive results have been   combining air and water, which has given perfect   • Cotton and blends             ensure a perfect shape.
 produce a thin, stable web which is perfectly suited   achieved with Dual Core Yarns. In this field, Savio   Italian Review  results in this area. MOISTAIR® splicer gives the                                                          Italian Review
 to be drawn directly to the desired sliver count – at   can also offer the new splicing technology combining   best performance with elastic core yarns.   Clearing of Core Yarns  C.A.D. Density Control
 highest production rates and lowest drafts. If cards   air and water, Moistair®, which represents the most   MOISTAIR® is an innovative air splicer using a very   The structure of core yarns is a special challenge   (Optional)
                                                                                                                                                                                    Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution
 produce a heavier web, the use of low drafts is not   flexible solution of any kind of yarn.  small quantity of water (spray).    during quality control. One of the typical faults is the   Beyond the winding tension control, the package
 possible at all, as, for example, from 12 ktex to 5 ktex                                                                                                                           density and formation depend on the contact
 a draft of 2.4 is applied.  Denim is integrated into our lifestyle. Denim is always   requested, especially for womenswear. Keeping up   Denim & Rotor Spinning  around a central elastomeric filament core, usually   It is endowed with a water valve with a dosage   pressure of the package on the drum. The load of
                                                              setting to moisture the splice. Suitable for almost all
             made of LYCRA® fiber. Different basic fibers (short
 popular and its market is expanding. As lifestyle   with this trend of stretch denim, many yarn & fabric   To allows the warping process to be best achieved,   Available on Helios  kind of short and long spun yarns, with the exclusion
 One versus two drafting zones – technological   no longer limited to this. The system is successfully   changes, so does denim – with new weights, fibers,   manufacturers are offering core yarns with improved   and long staple) are commonly used: cotton,
 advantages   applied in the processing of 100 percent raw cotton   finishing techniques, application treatments and   recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of   winding machines produce big cylindrical packages,   viscose, siro, woolen blends.  of plied cotton, high twisted wool yarns and linen.
 In order to show the influence of the distribution of   and other materials. It thus offers an answer to the   end-uses. Denim today it is worn everywhere: add   cotton next to the skin.   usually 300mm in diameter and over, with high   The MOISTAIR® has delivered superior
 drafts on main draft and break draft as opposed to   requirements of our customers with regard to   spandex for fitand comfort, Tencel® for luster,   density. The peculiar robustness and strength of   Dual Core Spun Yarn  performances on TENCEL® and fine counts fabrics.
 only one draft zone, a yarn of 100 percent raw cotton   increasing and necessary flexibility in the production   polyester for wear, wool for warmth, flax for looks.  Dual-core spun yarns are a combination of two   denim is given by the thickness of the yarn.  Dual core spun yarns are made of three
 (Mato Grosso) with Ne27 was spun in the direct   process.  different stretch products such as LYCRA® fiber and   components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a  Main application range:
 spinning process with a card production of 170kg/h.   Dye it into bright colors, or print or embellish it. Along   LYCRA® T400® fiber; this yarn increases stretch   The demand for yarns with elastomeric core is   • Short and long spun yarns
 With IDF 1, break drafts of 1.0, 1.05 and 1.16 with   The handling of the IDF has also been improved. For   with pants, denim is now available in coats, jackets,   power and provides great shape conformity for   expanding and plays an important role because of   • TENCEL®
 different main drafts were combined. The IDF 2 was   example, there is now a retention lock that prevents   skirts, dresses, eveningwear, accessories and   advanced comfort. This stretch technology hidden   fashion versatility and flexibility. Stretch garments are   • Elastic core yarns
 run with drafts of 1.2 to 1.95. The tests showed the   the cover of the IDF from always having to be   footwear. It is worn everywhere by men, women and   within the yarn eliminates the “bagging knee   playing an important role inside this scenario, denim   • Very fine cotton yarns
 trend across all parameters that IDF 2 with its 1-zone   opened completely during the piecing process.   children. Denim is the fabric of choice and its   syndrome” and creates a new standard for superior   jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially   • Coarse and slub yarns
 drafting system has clear advantages over IDF 1.  Similarly, the use of maintenance-free deep groove   popularity is growing. Tencel® has taken off in denim   shape retention and recovery performance, providing   for womenswear. Keeping up this trend of stretch   • Dual core yarns
 denim, many yarn & fabric manufacturers are
 ball bearings entirely eliminates the need for   at the high end of denim market. It offers softness,   a soft cotton hand and natural appearance.  offering duo core yarns with improved recovery and
 The first diagram shows the influence on yarn   relubrication at the delivery rollers: The number of   strength and sustainability. The softness of Tencel®   Twinsplicer
 evenness for a total draft of 1.7. There is clear   lubrication points is thus reduced to four. The   is especially popular in womenswear with skinny   The technology has relevance not only for jeans and   strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to   Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution  so-called strip-back. Due to a slippage between the
 evidence that the break draft in the IDF has a   jeans.  trousers, but also for denim leggings that lately have   the skin.  Rotor spinning (commonly called “Open End   The Twinsplicer, the unique selling proposition of   inner elastomeric filament and the staple fiber, the   the package on the drum is controlled by an
 negative influence on yarn parameters. It is   self-adjusting lap monitoring of the top rollers,   become popular. The added strength provided by   spinning”) is a process that incorporates spinning   Savio, provides top quality splice. The way the splice   core is not completely covered with the cotton fibers.   “electronic/pneumatic” system, which adjusts the
 noteworthy that for all quality parameters, the   already known from the draw frames, has now also   The trend toward body-fitting yet comfortable fashion   polyester helps these fabrics withstand bleaching   Dual core spun yarns are consisting of three   and winding operations. With the Open End system,   is prepared and made, ranks the Twinsplicer at the   As elastane and cotton have different characteristics   pressure of the counterweight piston, in accordance
 presence of the first drafting zone in the IDF 1 alone   found its way to the IDF. There is no need to readjust   apparel is very demanding and challenging. Stretch   and washing techniques, even on denim with   components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a   the sliver coming from the draw frame is directly   top among all other splicing devices. The splicer   during dyeing, these faults can become visible in the   with the density value required for the package.
 has a negative effect on the results, without any   after grinding intervals and changed settings.  polyester multifilament as T-400® and astaple fiber-   strength is close to parent yarn, keeping the   final product. The yarn clearer can identify faults   Special yarns (elastomeric and very fine yarns),
 garments are playing an important role inside this   treatments such as antique finishes, whisker washing   mainly cotton. This special yarn offers improved   converted into yarn, wound onto package cones. In   appearance the same as the parent yarn. The splicer   during winding; also faults in core yarns can be   especially for dyeing packages, may require a very
 scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly   and sandblasting.  recovery and strength compared to traditional core   the count range in which it can be used, the use of   identified.  severe control of package density.
               November/December 2020                                                                                                                                                                    November/December 2020
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