Page 53 - November-December-2020
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draft of 1.15, then only a draft of 1.13 remains for the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        be manifold and may be related to cotton cultivation
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          main draft (1.15*1.13 = 1.3). This means that the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and harvesting methods. However, a crucial aspect
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        is that the economic pressure on spinning mills and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          levelling dynamic is limited to 13 percent. This is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        their production costs is increasing, leading to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          much too low to respond to short-wave fluctuations.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        use of ever shorter fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          For comparison: With the autoleveller draw frame,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the main draft and thus the levelling range often
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          exceeds 400 percent.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Development history of the IDF at Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        It takes time for optimised processes to establish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        themselves on the market. This is because process
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        shortening initially presents a challenge in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        spinning mill. It must be ensured that the same yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        quality is achieved in terms of processing
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        parameters such as strength, elasticity or
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        appearance. In the mid-nineties, at the beginning of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the IDF development, it was unimaginable that yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        could be produced from 100 percent noils, but today
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        this is certainly the case. This is also a way for large
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        combing mills to include their own waste in the value
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          By eliminating the break draft in the IDF 2, the entire
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        chain and selling it with added value. Truetzschler
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        has significantly advanced this development and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          drafting takes place in one drafting zone. Thus the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        implemented the IDF system in 1999, based on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          levelling range is fully utilised. Fluctuations are ideally
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Spanish market requirements for the card TC 11. In
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          compensated this way. If two parameters must be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the following years, it was continuously developed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          optimised simultaneously, it is much more difficult to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        and improved.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          find the technologically better setting. This is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          because break draft and main draft must be varied
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        In 2013 Truetzschler presented a fundamental
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          and constantly adapted to material changes. The IDF
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          2 is thus not only the better technological solution,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        revision: The Integrated Draw Frame IDF 2. The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          but also simplifies handling. This is a particular
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        special feature was the reduction of two drafting
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          advantage, since nowadays many spinning mills
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        zones to one. Thus, the IDF 2 responds to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          have to deal with the problem of having hardly any
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        increasingly urgent demands of our customers for
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          qualified personnel available to technologically
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        production cost reduction on the one hand and a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          evaluate settings of this kind.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        high quality standard despite poor raw material
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        qualities on the other. This is because only the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        1-zone drafting system allows particularly low drafts,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          When using a normal-width drafting system, larger
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        which are the decisive guarantee of success for the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the shortening of processes means lower staff
                                                                                                                                                                                  dependent on the presence and experience of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          masses are accelerated and decelerated again
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        processing of particularly short fibers.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          during levelling, which can lead to increased energy
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   numbers are possible, whilst the IDF also provides a
                                                                                                                                                                                  employees in a spinning mill. Nowadays, it is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   solution for tackling the increasing demand for
                                                                                                                                                                                  significantly influenced by futuristic plant solutions
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          consumption. For this reason the width of the bottom
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        The main difference between IDF 1 and IDF 2 lies in
                                                                                                                                                                                  and intelligent machine systems. In the world of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          and top rollers of the IDF 2 has been reduced to the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   spinning high-grade yarns from inferior raw material.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        the drafting system itself. Experience has shown that
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          width of a sliver. This also allowed the introduction of
                                                                                                                                                                                  spinning, options for shortening processes, and thus
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        low total drafts are the key to success – especially
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   For years, Truetzschler has been watching the trend
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          the clever solution of rotating top rollers, which has
                                                                                                                                                                                  reducing outlay in production, are becoming more
                                                                                                                                                                                  and more relevant. One example is the IDF
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        with short-staple cotton, which is usually used in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          led to a doubling of the service life before grinding.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   that fiber lengths used in the rotor yarn sector in
                                                                                                                                                                                  integrated draw frame from Truetzschler which so far
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        rotor spinning. However, dividing this small draft into
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   particular are becoming shorter and shorter. In 2003,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        break draft and main draft results in more
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the average fiber length for our customers’ rotor yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          The IDF 2 also introduced the sliver loop storage.
                                                                                                                                                                                  is superior to all competitor solutions. It can be used
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        disadvantages than advantages. For instance, if the
                                                                                                                                                                                  to combine two important aspects which currently
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          This driven deflection roller levels the sliver loop by
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   installations was 28.5 mm, today it is only 26 mm.
 Italian Review                                                                                                                                                                   the rotor spinning process allows a faster production   polyester multifilament as T-400® and a cotton fiber.                                                           C.A.T. Computer Aided Tension
 52                                                                                                             53                                                                High yarn quality is becoming less and less      heavily occupy the minds of our customers. For one,                  This is a remarkable decline. The reasons for this can   goal is to achieve a 1.3-fold total draft using a break
                                                                                                                                                                                  cycle and greater output, saving in floor space and   This special yarn offers improved recovery and                                                                    Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution
                                                                                                                                                                                  capital investment. The process was developed in   strength compared to traditional core spun                                                                           The winding tension is detected continuously by the
 means of an integrated light barrier, resulting in   actual tension being applied. (IDF 1 break draft 1.0).                                                                      the ‘60-70 since it was more economical and       technology.                                                                                                           Tensor, which interacts
 perfect synchronisation between card and IDF. The   The second diagram illustrates that IDF 2 and IDF 1                                                                          resulted in a more consistent yarn thickness. The                                                                                                                       with the yarn tensioner
 levelled loop permits high change speeds. This   both have the same trend, i.e. that the yarn strength                                                                           rotor design is the key to the operation of the   Moistair® Splicer                                                                                                     device, through the
 ensures a higher efficiency at the card, especially   decreases with increasing total draft. Compared to                                                                         open-ended spinners. This system is much less     Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution                                                                        machine PC, in order to
 when using small rotor cans.  IDF 1, IDF 2 shows overall strength at a higher level.                                                                                             labor-intensive and faster than ring spinning.    A common problem faced by the stretch fabric                                                                          adjust the load on the
 This confirms the statement that the use of only one   Solutions for Denim                                                                                                       Features of Open End Yarn:                                                                                                                                              yarn as required. The
 drafting zone has a positive effect on the yarn                                                                                                                                  • Abbreviated production cycle, optimized cost                                                                                                                          Tensor, being positioned
 properties.                                                                                                                                                                      production                                                                                                                                                              just before the drum,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          detects online the real
                                                                                                                                                                                  • More uniform surface
 Development of the IDF 2                                                                                                                                                         • Yarn can absorb indigo dye deeper into the core                                                                                                                       winding tension. The
 The IDF 2 has been established on the market for   Yarn Processing                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       sensor does not have
 seven years. The advantages of the system are now   Denim & Winding    spun technology. Savio winding machine can easily                                                         Single Core Spun Yarn                                                                                                 on compact yarns, besides offering the strength,   any movable part and
 recognised by the entire professional community,   Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution  process special and challenging yarns. Savio                                  Core spun yarn is created by twisting staple fibers                                                                   needs to provide an extremely good appearance not   performs as “anti-wrap
 competitors and customers. Initially, the shortened          winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension                                                                                                                                                                                        to create a visible defect on the finest fabrics. The   system”.
 process was only used with 100 percent cotton –   Savio automatic winders can easily process special and   control devices for ensuring perfect joints and                                                                                                                                             Twinsplicer for core yarns preserves the elastomeric
 preferably from the recycling sector – but today it is       perfect package shape. A common problem faced                                                                                                                                                                                             filament entirely inside the splices.             Tensorflex: In presence
 challenging yarns; now the most demanding product is         by the stretch fabric manufacturers is the breakage                                                                                                                                                                                       Main application range:                           of elastomeric yarn
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          blended with
 core spun yarns                                              of the yarns during downstream process.                                                                                                                                                                                                   • Cotton 100%                                     wool/cotton, the tension
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          values must be
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        • Cotton 100% Effect yarns
                                                              The well-known Savio Twinsplicer® still represents                                                                                                                    manufacturers is the breakage of the yarns during                   • Compact Yarns                                   diversified during the
 The combination of Truetzschler cards with IDF 2   The Savio winding unit is equipped with clearing,   the solution to achieve the best performance of a                                                                           production. Savio offers a new splicing technology,                 • Elastomeric yarns                               package formation to
                                                              “perfect joint” on Core Yarns, mainly “single core”
 gives customers an advantage, because they                   with cotton, but also positive results have been                                                                                                                      combining air and water, which has given perfect                    • Cotton and blends                               ensure a perfect shape.
 produce a thin, stable web which is perfectly suited   splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect   achieved with Dual Core Yarns. In this field, Savio   Italian Review                                            results in this area. MOISTAIR® splicer gives the
 to be drawn directly to the desired sliver count – at        can also offer the new splicing technology combining                                                                                                                  best performance with elastic core yarns.                           Clearing of Core Yarns                            C.A.D. Density Control
 highest production rates and lowest drafts. If cards   splices and perfect package shape  air and water, Moistair®, which represents the most                                                                                      MOISTAIR® is an innovative air splicer using a very                 The structure of core yarns is a special challenge   (Optional)
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Available on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution
 produce a heavier web, the use of low drafts is not          flexible solution of any kind of yarn.                                                                                                                                small quantity of water (spray).                                    during quality control. One of the typical faults is the   Beyond the winding tension control, the package
 possible at all, as, for example, from 12 ktex to 5 ktex                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 density and formation depend on the contact
 a draft of 2.4 is applied.  Denim is integrated into our lifestyle. Denim is always   requested, especially for womenswear. Keeping up   Denim & Rotor Spinning                  around a central elastomeric filament core, usually   It is endowed with a water valve with a dosage                                                                    pressure of the package on the drum. The load of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    setting to moisture the splice. Suitable for almost all
                                                                                                                                                                                  made of LYCRA® fiber. Different basic fibers (short
 popular and its market is expanding. As lifestyle   with this trend of stretch denim, many yarn & fabric   To allows the warping process to be best achieved,   Available on Helios                                                kind of short and long spun yarns, with the exclusion
 One versus two drafting zones – technological   no longer limited to this. The system is successfully   changes, so does denim – with new weights, fibers,   manufacturers are offering core yarns with improved   and long staple) are commonly used: cotton,
 advantages   applied in the processing of 100 percent raw cotton   finishing techniques, application treatments and   recovery and strength, while retaining the comfort of   winding machines produce big cylindrical packages,   viscose, siro, woolen blends.  of plied cotton, high twisted wool yarns and linen.
 In order to show the influence of the distribution of   and other materials. It thus offers an answer to the   end-uses. Denim today it is worn everywhere: add   cotton next to the skin.   usually 300mm in diameter and over, with high   The MOISTAIR® has delivered superior
 drafts on main draft and break draft as opposed to   requirements of our customers with regard to   spandex for fitand comfort, Tencel® for luster,   density. The peculiar robustness and strength of   Dual Core Spun Yarn       performances on TENCEL® and fine counts fabrics.
 only one draft zone, a yarn of 100 percent raw cotton   increasing and necessary flexibility in the production   polyester for wear, wool for warmth, flax for looks.  Dual-core spun yarns are a combination of two   denim is given by the thickness of the yarn.  Dual core spun yarns are made of three
 (Mato Grosso) with Ne27 was spun in the direct   process.  different stretch products such as LYCRA® fiber and                                                                   components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a    Main application range:
 spinning process with a card production of 170kg/h.   Dye it into bright colors, or print or embellish it. Along   LYCRA® T400® fiber; this yarn increases stretch   The demand for yarns with elastomeric core is                 • Short and long spun yarns
 With IDF 1, break drafts of 1.0, 1.05 and 1.16 with   The handling of the IDF has also been improved. For   with pants, denim is now available in coats, jackets,   power and provides great shape conformity for   expanding and plays an important role because of   • TENCEL®
 different main drafts were combined. The IDF 2 was   example, there is now a retention lock that prevents   skirts, dresses, eveningwear, accessories and   advanced comfort. This stretch technology hidden   fashion versatility and flexibility. Stretch garments are   • Elastic core yarns
 run with drafts of 1.2 to 1.95. The tests showed the   the cover of the IDF from always having to be   footwear. It is worn everywhere by men, women and   within the yarn eliminates the “bagging knee   playing an important role inside this scenario, denim   • Very fine cotton yarns
 trend across all parameters that IDF 2 with its 1-zone   opened completely during the piecing process.   children. Denim is the fabric of choice and its   syndrome” and creates a new standard for superior   jeans and leggings are highly requested, especially   • Coarse and slub yarns
 drafting system has clear advantages over IDF 1.  Similarly, the use of maintenance-free deep groove   popularity is growing. Tencel® has taken off in denim   shape retention and recovery performance, providing   for womenswear. Keeping up this trend of stretch   • Dual core yarns
             denim, many yarn & fabric manufacturers are
 ball bearings entirely eliminates the need for   at the high end of denim market. It offers softness,   a soft cotton hand and natural appearance.  offering duo core yarns with improved recovery and
 The first diagram shows the influence on yarn   relubrication at the delivery rollers: The number of   strength and sustainability. The softness of Tencel®                                                                        Twinsplicer
 evenness for a total draft of 1.7. There is clear   lubrication points is thus reduced to four. The   is especially popular in womenswear with skinny   The technology has relevance not only for jeans and   strength, while retaining the comfort of cotton next to   Avalaible on Eco PulsarS Plus, Polar Evolution  so-called strip-back. Due to a slippage between the
 evidence that the break draft in the IDF has a   jeans.  trousers, but also for denim leggings that lately have   the skin.  Rotor spinning (commonly called “Open End                                                             The Twinsplicer, the unique selling proposition of                  inner elastomeric filament and the staple fiber, the   the package on the drum is controlled by an
 negative influence on yarn parameters. It is   self-adjusting lap monitoring of the top rollers,   become popular. The added strength provided by   spinning”) is a process that incorporates spinning                             Savio, provides top quality splice. The way the splice              core is not completely covered with the cotton fibers.   “electronic/pneumatic” system, which adjusts the
 noteworthy that for all quality parameters, the   already known from the draw frames, has now also   The trend toward body-fitting yet comfortable fashion   polyester helps these fabrics withstand bleaching   Dual core spun yarns are consisting of three   and winding operations. With the Open End system,   is prepared and made, ranks the Twinsplicer at the   As elastane and cotton have different characteristics   pressure of the counterweight piston, in accordance
 presence of the first drafting zone in the IDF 1 alone   found its way to the IDF. There is no need to readjust   apparel is very demanding and challenging. Stretch   and washing techniques, even on denim with   components: a core filament - mainly Lycra®, a   the sliver coming from the draw frame is directly   top among all other splicing devices. The splicer   during dyeing, these faults can become visible in the   with the density value required for the package.
 has a negative effect on the results, without any   after grinding intervals and changed settings.  polyester multifilament as T-400® and astaple fiber-                                                                           strength is close to parent yarn, keeping the                       final product. The yarn clearer can identify faults   Special yarns (elastomeric and very fine yarns),
 garments are playing an important role inside this   treatments such as antique finishes, whisker washing   mainly cotton. This special yarn offers improved   converted into yarn, wound onto package cones. In                   appearance the same as the parent yarn. The splicer                 during winding; also faults in core yarns can be   especially for dyeing packages, may require a very
 scenario, denim jeans and leggings are highly   and sandblasting.  recovery and strength compared to traditional core   the count range in which it can be used, the use of                                                                                                                            identified.                                       severe control of package density.
 November/December 2020                                                            November/December 2020
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